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2019 Toyota Highlander
2008 - 2019 Toyota Highlander
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How to Replace Front Brakes 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

How to Replace Front Brakes 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Wrench
or (21/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2019 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2019 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads on your Highlander restores stopping power and helps prevent rotor damage. This job involves lifting the front of the vehicle, removing the front wheels, opening each brake caliper, and installing new pads and hardware.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Always support your Highlander with jack stands before working near the wheels.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful; avoid blowing it with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Wipe spills immediately with a clean rag and water.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake pad replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm open-end wrench
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • Torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs
  • Torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs
  • Disc brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Brake caliper hanger hook
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop rags
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Synthetic brake lubricant - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Highlander on level ground and shift to Park.
  • 🅿️ Set the parking brake firmly.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • 🌡️ Let the brakes cool completely before starting.
  • 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is near the MAX line, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper pistons.
  • 📘 A brake caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor to stop the vehicle.
  • 📘 A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel that the brake pads press against.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about one turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
  • Loosen only, do not remove yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise the front of your Highlander.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle slowly onto the jack stands.
  • Gently shake the vehicle by hand to make sure it is stable before removing the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the sides of the vehicle as an added safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Setup

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Look at the brake caliper, brake pads, and rotor before taking anything apart.
  • Use brake cleaner spray and shop rags to clean loose brake dust from the caliper area.
  • Do not spray brake cleaner on painted surfaces.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Slide Pin Bolt

  • Use a 17mm open-end wrench to hold the caliper slide pin steady.
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
  • A slide pin lets the caliper move smoothly as the pads wear.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver gently between the old outer pad and caliper if the caliper feels stuck.
  • Swing the caliper upward like opening a door.
  • Use the brake caliper hanger hook to support the caliper if needed.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

  • Slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • If a pad is stuck, use the flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry it out.
  • Pay attention to how the pads and metal clips are positioned before removal.
  • Take a phone photo first.

Step 8: Remove and Replace the Pad Hardware

  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver to pop the old metal pad support clips out of the caliper bracket.
  • Clean the bracket contact areas with brake cleaner spray and shop rags.
  • Install the new clips from the front brake pad hardware kit by pressing them into the same positions.
  • The clips must sit flat and fully seated.

Step 9: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use the disc brake piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • A piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the pad into the rotor.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston so it does not overflow.
  • Go slowly to protect seals.

Step 10: Lubricate the Contact Points

  • Apply a thin layer of synthetic brake lubricant to the pad ears where they touch the new metal clips.
  • Use only a light coating. Too much grease can attract dirt.
  • Do not get lubricant on the pad friction surface or rotor face.

Step 11: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the friction material faces the rotor.
  • Confirm the pads move slightly in the clips without binding.

Step 12: Lower the Caliper and Install the Bolt

  • Swing the caliper down over the new pads by hand.
  • If it will not fit, use the disc brake piston compressor tool again to make sure the piston is fully seated.
  • Install the lower caliper slide pin bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 17mm open-end wrench to hold the slide pin.
  • Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs to tighten the bolt to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Front Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 12 on the other front brake assembly.
  • Always replace front brake pads in pairs so braking stays even.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheels

  • Place each wheel back onto the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts finger-tight first.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
  • This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
  • Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check the brake fluid level and make sure it is between MIN and MAX.
  • ✅ Start your Highlander and press the brake pedal again to confirm it feels firm.
  • ✅ Look behind both front wheels for leaks or anything loose.
  • ✅ Take a slow test drive in a safe area before normal driving.
  • ✅ Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from about 30 mph, allowing the brakes to cool briefly between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 150-200 miles unless needed for safety.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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