🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be replacing the front brake pads on your Altima, which stop the car by squeezing the brake rotors. Worn pads reduce braking performance and can damage the rotors if not replaced in time.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always work on a cool brake system; hot brakes can burn your skin.
• 🛑 Park on level ground, engage the parking brake, and place the transmission in PARK.
• 🛑 Use a floor jack only to lift the car; always support it with jack stands before going underneath or removing wheels.
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal when a caliper is removed; this can push the piston out.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage painted surfaces. Wipe spills immediately.
• 🛑 You do not need to disconnect the battery for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 21mm socket
• 🧰 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🧰 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar
• 🧰 14mm socket
• 🧰 17mm socket
• 🧰 Torque wrench (3/8" or 1/2" drive, up to 120 ft-lbs)
• 🧰 C-clamp (6" or larger) or disc brake caliper spreader (specialty)
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🧰 Wire brush (small)
• 🧰 Bungee cord or wire hanger
• 🧰 Shop rags
• 🧰 Catch pan or tray
• 🧰 Brake cleaner spray
• 🧰 Nitrile gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🧱 Front brake pad set - Qty: 1 (includes pads for both front wheels, replace in pairs)
• 🧱 Front brake pad hardware kit (ab clips / shims) - Qty: 1
• 🧱 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🧱 Brake cleaner - Qty: 1–2 cans
• 🧱 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube (optional, for wheel hub)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park the Altima on level ground, engage the parking brake, and put the shifter in PARK.
• 🧭 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent rolling.
• 🧭 Loosen (but do not remove) the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with the 21mm socket and breaker bar while the car is still on the ground.
• 🧭 Identify the front jacking point under the front crossmember and the proper pinch weld or frame area for jack stands as shown in your owner’s manual.
• 🧭 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you may need to remove a little fluid if it is already near the “MAX” line because pushing pistons back raises the level.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front of the car

• Use the floor jack at the front jacking point to raise the front of the Altima until both front wheels are off the ground.
• Place jack stands under the recommended front support points (pinch welds or frame rails) and slowly lower the car onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Give the car a gentle shake by hand to confirm it’s stable on the stands.
• Never work under a car supported only by a jack.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and ratchet (or breaker bar) to remove the lug nuts from both front wheels.
• Pull the wheels straight off and set them aside where they won’t tip over.

Step 3: Inspect the brake assembly

• Visually inspect the brake rotor (the large disc) and caliper (the clamp that holds the pads) on each side.
• Look at the rotor surface; if it has deep grooves, heavy rust, or cracks, plan to replace or resurface it later.
• Light, even grooves are usually acceptable with new pads.

Step 4: Remove the lower caliper bolt

• Locate the two caliper guide pin bolts on the back of the caliper; on the Altima front brakes, these are usually 14mm.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the lower caliper bolt completely.
• Leave the upper caliper bolt in place; you will use it as a hinge.

Step 5: Swing the caliper up and secure it

• Use a flathead screwdriver between the pad and rotor to gently pry the caliper outward a little; this can relieve some pressure and make it easier to swing up.
• Rotate the caliper upward around the upper bolt like a hinge.
• Use a bungee cord or wire hanger to hang the caliper from the suspension spring so that the brake hose is not stretched or kinked.
• Never let the caliper hang by the rubber hose.

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Note how the inner and outer pads are oriented; the inner pad may have a wear indicator tab (a small metal finger).
• Remove the metal clips (pad hardware) from the caliper bracket using your flathead screwdriver if they are stuck.

Step 7: Clean the caliper bracket and rotor

• Use the wire brush to clean the surfaces of the caliper bracket where the clips sit, removing rust and debris.
• Spray the rotor and caliper bracket with brake cleaner and let the runoff fall into your catch pan.
• Wipe dry with shop rags.
• Cleaning helps pads move freely and prevents noise.

Step 8: Install new hardware clips

• Snap the new metal hardware clips from your hardware kit into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Ensure each clip is fully seated and centered; they should not wobble or fall out.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Position the C-clamp or disc brake caliper spreader so that one side presses on the old pad and the other side presses on the back of the caliper body.
• Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston is fully pushed back into the caliper housing.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood; if the fluid rises above the MAX line, remove a small amount with a clean rag or syringe.
• Tighten the clamp slowly to avoid damage.

Step 10: Apply brake grease

• Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature brake grease on the metal surfaces of the new hardware clips where the pads will slide.
• Apply a small amount of brake grease to the back of the new pads where they contact the caliper or piston (not on the friction surface).
• Keep grease off the pad faces and rotor.

Step 11: Install the new brake pads

• Slide the new inner pad into the caliper bracket against the rotor; if one pad has a wear indicator tab, install it on the inner side at the bottom or top as the original was.
• Install the new outer pad into the outer side of the bracket.
• Make sure both pads sit flat and move smoothly in the hardware.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper back down over the new pads and onto the caliper bracket.
• If it does not fit, the piston may not be fully compressed; compress it a little more with the C-clamp.
• Reinstall the lower caliper guide pin bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to tighten both guide pin bolts (upper and lower) if you loosened both.
• Use the torque wrench with the 14mm socket to tighten the caliper guide pin bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 4–12 on the other front wheel.
• Always replace brake pads on both sides together.

Step 14: Final checks and wheel installation

• Inspect around both calipers to confirm all bolts are tight and the brake hose is not twisted or pinched.
• If desired, apply a very thin smear of anti-seize compound to the wheel hub face to help prevent the wheel from sticking in the future (do not get any on the studs or rotor face).
• Reinstall each front wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern while the car is still on jack stands.

Step 15: Lower the car and torque the lug nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise the car slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Pump the brake pedal and check fluid

• Sit in the driver’s seat and slowly press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. It will sink low on the first few pumps as the pads move into position.
• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and make sure it is between the MIN and MAX marks. Adjust if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 With the engine running, press the brake pedal and hold pressure; ensure it stays firm and does not sink to the floor.
• 🧪 Check around the front calipers and brake hoses for any visible leaks or rubbing points.
• 🧪 Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area: start at 10–20 km/h, apply the brakes gently, and listen for abnormal noises or pulling.
• 🧪 Bed-in (break-in) the new pads: make 5–10 moderate stops from about 40–50 km/h down to 10–15 km/h, allowing the brakes to cool slightly between each stop. Avoid hard panic stops at first.
• 🧪 After the test drive, re-check lug nut torque with the torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300–$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80–$160 (parts only)

You Save: $220–$290 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.

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