How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2018 Nissan Armada (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts and lug nuts, plus pad bed-in steps for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024
How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2018 Nissan Armada (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts and lug nuts, plus pad bed-in steps for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024
🔧 Armada - Front Brake Pad Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the front brake calipers, swap the old pads for new ones, then reassemble and bed-in the pads. This restores safe braking and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- Brake dust can irritate lungs/eyes; wear safety glasses and a dust mask, and use brake cleaner (don’t blow dust with compressed air).
- Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
- Support the caliper with a bungee cord; don’t let it hang by the brake hose.
- If brake fluid nears the top of the reservoir, remove a little with a fluid syringe before compressing pistons.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
- Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
- Socket set (metric)
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- C-clamp (6" or larger)
- Caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Brake cleaner spray
- Disposable gloves
- Safety glasses
- Dust mask
- Fluid syringe
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the shifter in Park, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll re-check the level after the job.
- Know your tools: a torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact spec; a caliper piston compression tool pushes the brake piston back smoothly.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the front lug nuts
- Use a 21mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove them yet).
Step 2: Lift and support the front end
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the factory jacking point.
- Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before you work.
Step 3: Remove the front wheels
- Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lug nuts, then remove the wheels.
Step 4: Inspect pads and rotors
- Look through the caliper opening and check pad thickness.
- Check the rotor surface for deep grooves, heavy rust ridges, or cracks. If rotor is badly worn, replace it.
Step 5: Remove the caliper (do not stretch the hose)
- Turn the steering so the caliper you’re working on faces outward for easier access.
- Use a ratchet (3/8" drive) and socket set (metric) to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the rotor and hang it using a bungee cord.
- Torque spec (reinstall): Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
- Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
Step 7: Clean the bracket and prep new hardware
- Use brake cleaner spray to clean the bracket and pad contact areas.
- Use a wire brush to remove rust where the pad clips sit (this helps prevent pad sticking).
- Install the new clips from the front brake hardware kit.
Step 8: Compress the caliper piston
- Check the brake fluid reservoir; if it’s near MAX, remove a little with a fluid syringe.
- Use a C-clamp (6" or larger) or caliper piston compression tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
- Compress slowly and evenly until the piston is fully seated. Slow is smooth; prevents seal damage.
Step 9: Install the new pads
- Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone) to the pad ears where they touch the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
Step 10: Reinstall the caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads and onto the bracket.
- Install the slide pin bolts using a ratchet (3/8" drive) and socket set (metric).
- Torque spec: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)
Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Use a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs) and 21mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque spec: Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs)
✅ After Repair
- Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3) if needed.
- Do a cautious test drive and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
- Pad bed-in: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph, with light driving between stops to cool.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $70-$200 (parts only)
You Save: $150-$580 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















