🔧 Ridgeline - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheel, swing the front brake caliper out of the way, and swap in new pads (plus hardware clips if included). This restores proper stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal rotor damage when pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Ridgeline with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
• 🛑 Brakes can be hot; let them cool before touching the rotor/caliper.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage finishes.
• 🛑 Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner and avoid blowing dust with air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Large C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire hook or bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Do not remove fluid yet—just keep an eye on the level when you compress the piston.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jack point.
• Set the truck securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Locate the caliper bolts and remove the caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work on that side.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Hang it with a wire hook or bungee cord so it doesn’t pull on the brake hose.
• Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad hardware clips from the bracket (these are the “pad abutment clips”—they help the pads slide smoothly).
• Spray the bracket pad lands with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean.

Step 4: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one of the old brake pads against the caliper piston face.
• Use a large C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly compress the piston fully into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level while compressing. If it gets close to the top, stop and remove a little fluid (do not overflow).

Step 5: Install new hardware clips and new pads

• Install the new hardware clips into the caliper bracket (they should snap into place by hand).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad ears touch the clips. Do not get grease on pad friction material or rotor.
• Install the new pads into the bracket. Make sure the pad with the wear indicator (if included) matches the same position as the one you removed.

Step 6: Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolts

• Swing the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the truck off the stands with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–7 for the other front side.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in (break in) the pads: do several moderate stops from 30–40 mph, allowing a little cool-down between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 150–200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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