🔧 Accord - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage to your rotors. On your Accord, the pads sit inside the front caliper and can be replaced with basic hand tools if you work carefully and keep everything clean.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands before working under or near the wheels.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
• 🛑 Brake parts may contain dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• 🛑 Keep grease off the pad friction material and rotor face.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• Large C-clamp
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (set it loosely back on top). This helps the caliper piston push back easier.
• Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1 turn while the car is still on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the front of the car

• Lift the front using a floor jack at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the car securely on jack stands.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the front wheels

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)

• Locate the two caliper slide-pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove both slide-pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring with a bungee cord. This prevents brake hose damage.
• Never hang the caliper by the hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Use brake cleaner spray and a wire brush to clean the bracket pad “rails” where the clips sit (these are the metal ledges the pads slide on).

Step 6: Retract the caliper piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a large C-clamp to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress—fluid rises as the piston goes in. Remove excess if it gets too high.
• Go slow to avoid damaging the piston seal.

Step 7: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Snap the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if needed).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to the clip contact areas where the pad “ears” touch.
• Do not get grease on the rotor face or pad friction material.

Step 8: Install the new pads

• Slide the new pads into the bracket until they move freely.
• If your pad set includes shims, install them as supplied with the pads.
• If a pad feels stuck, re-clean the bracket rails.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the slide-pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the slide-pin bolts: Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Restore pedal feel

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotor.
• Recheck the brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap fully.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal feels normal and doesn’t sink.
• ✅ Do a low-speed test in a safe area: gentle stops first, then slightly harder stops.
• ✅ Bedding-in (recommended): make 6–8 medium stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph, driving a little between stops to cool the brakes.
• ✅ Check for unusual noises, pulling, or a burning smell that doesn’t fade after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.