🔧 Traverse - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads on your Traverse restores safe stopping power and prevents damage to the rotors. You’ll remove the front calipers, swap the pads and hardware, then reassemble with correct torque and a proper pedal “pump-up.”

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat surface and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let them cool before touching parts.
• 🧪 Brake fluid damages paint; wipe spills immediately.
• 🧤 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a dust mask.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for front pads on your Traverse.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range)
• H13 / 7mm hex bit socket
• 18mm socket
• Large C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Catch pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware/clip set - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 (top-off as needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🧴 Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level. If it’s near “MAX,” remove a little with a clean syringe/turkey baster into a catch pan (fluid rises when you push pistons back).
• 🔩 Before lifting, crack the front lug nuts loose using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (do not remove yet).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Lift the front at the proper jack point using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Support the vehicle with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points.
• Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Access the caliper and pads

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left for right side work, right for left side work).
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward a little to create space (don’t gouge the rotor).

Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not hang by the hose)

• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using an H13 / 7mm hex bit socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper with a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire (this “caliper hanger” keeps the brake hose from being stretched).

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (the flat areas where clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face.
• Use a large C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper (a C-clamp is a screw clamp used to press parts together).
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove extra fluid if it threatens to overflow into your catch pan.

Step 6: Service the slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe them clean and inspect the rubber boots for tears.
• Apply a thin, even coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) to the pins, then reinstall them.
• Don’t use regular grease; it can swell boots.

Step 7: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver only if needed to fully seat them).
• Install the new pads into the bracket (make sure they move freely; no forcing).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolts

• Position the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using an H13 / 7mm hex bit socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–8 on the other side using the same tools and torque spec.
• Do one side at a time to avoid mix-ups.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• 🧴 Recheck brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• 🔍 Check for leaks, and confirm both front wheels spin freely with the pedal released (a light pad rub is normal).
• 🛣️ Perform a careful road test: low-speed stops first, then normal stops.
• 🔥 Pad bed-in (recommended): make 8–10 smooth stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing a little cooling between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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