🔧 Forte - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the front wheel, swinging the front brake caliper out of the way, and swapping the old pads for new ones. The key is to support the caliper (don’t let it hang by the hose) and compress the piston slowly so the new thicker pads fit.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Forte with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust and cleaner are irritating—wear a mask and safety glasses.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Support the caliper with a hook/strap—do not let it hang from the brake hose.
• ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid level when compressing the piston; it can overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-50 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Old brake pad (to use as a press plate)
• Brake caliper hook
• Wire brush
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in Park, and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Leave the cap installed but be ready to check the level often while compressing the piston.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of your Forte

• Lift the front at the approved front jacking point using a floor jack.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the pinch weld support points.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (or 1/2" drive ratchet).
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 3: Locate the caliper bolts and check pad layout

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room (turn left for the right side, and right for the left side).
• Look at how the pads and clips sit in the bracket so you can copy it during reassembly. Quick photo helps a lot.

Step 4: Remove the caliper guide pin bolts

• Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hook (this keeps the hose from being strained).

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (abutment clips) from the bracket.
• Clean the clip “shelves” on the bracket using brake parts cleaner, shop rags, and a wire brush.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face to protect it.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston back into the caliper until it bottoms.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress; if it gets too high, remove a little with a rag (don’t spill on paint).
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 7: Service the slide pins (important)

• Pull each slide pin out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off with shop rags.
• Apply a thin, even coat of silicone brake lubricant to each pin and reinstall.
• Make sure the pins move smoothly in and out (they should not stick).

Step 8: Install new pad clips and new pads

• Install the new abutment clips from the hardware kit onto the bracket.
• Apply a very thin film of silicone brake lubricant where the pad “ears” touch the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
• Slide the new pads into the bracket (inner pad typically goes on the piston side).
• Keep grease off pad friction material.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper guide pin bolts by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Tighten the guide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–10 on the other front side.
• Always replace pads in pairs.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, slowly pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Start the car and confirm the pedal feels normal before driving.
• Do a low-speed test in a safe area: confirm stopping power and no pulling/noise.
• Pad break-in: make 8–10 smooth stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing light cooling between stops (avoid hard panic stops for the first ~200 miles).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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