🔧 Impreza - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage to your rotors. You’ll remove the front calipers, swap the pads, and reassemble with the correct torque so everything stays secure and quiet.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support your Impreza with jack stands before going under or removing wheels.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for front brake pads on your Impreza.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper hanger hook (or strong bungee cord)
• Wire brush
• Catch pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Crack (slightly loosen) the front lug nuts before lifting the car using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. We’re watching fluid level when compressing pistons.
• If the reservoir is very full, use a catch pan and remove a small amount (so it won’t overflow later).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Impreza at the proper front jack point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) placed under safe support points.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before removing wheels.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the car as an extra safety backup.

Step 3: Locate the caliper and identify the bolts

• The brake caliper is the clamp over the rotor. The pads sit inside it.
• You’ll typically remove the two caliper “slide pin” bolts first (these let the caliper swing up/off).
• A slide pin is a guided bolt that lets the caliper move.

Step 4: Remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
• If the slide pin wants to spin, hold it carefully while loosening (keep the rubber boot from twisting).

Step 5: Support the caliper (do not hang by the hose)

• Lift the caliper off the pads/rotor.
• Hang it from the strut spring using a brake caliper hanger hook (or strong bungee cord).
• Never let the brake hose carry the weight.

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware/abutment clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face (to spread the force evenly).
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; stop if it looks like it will overflow.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 8: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Install the new abutment clips from the front brake pad hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to the clip contact areas where the pad “ears” slide.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or the rotor.

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket/clips.
• If your pad set includes wear indicators (squealers), install them in the same position as the originals.
• Confirm both pads slide freely in the clips (no sticking).

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads and align the slide pin holes.
• Install the slide pin bolts by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range).

Step 11: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–10 on the other front brake.
• Always replace front pads as a pair.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both front wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the car safely using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench (10–200 Nm range).
• Torque to 120 Nm (88 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Check the brake fluid level and top up if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal (it may drop slightly with power assist).
• Test drive at low speed first and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bed-in (break-in): make 8–10 smooth stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, leaving time to cool between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.