How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2016 Subaru Forester (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts and lug nuts to do the job right for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2016 Subaru Forester (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts and lug nuts to do the job right for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
đź”§ Forester - Front Brake Pad Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, swing the front calipers out of the way, swap the old pads for new ones, then compress the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. Doing it carefully prevents brake noise, uneven wear, and dragging brakes.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support your Forester with jack stands before working near/under it.
- 🛑 Never press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
- 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- 🛑 Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.
- 🛑 Keep the caliper supported; don’t let it hang by the brake hose.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for front pad replacement.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–50 ft-lbs range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp (6" minimum)
- Bungee cord
- Brake parts cleaner spray
- Wire brush
- Disposable nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- đź§± Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🧴 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap loosely set on top (don’t lose it). As you push pistons back, fluid can rise.
- đź§° Lay out parts and tools. Do one side at a time.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front
- Use a 19mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about 1/2 turn (while the tire is still on the ground).
- Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front jacking point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 2: Remove the front wheels
- Finish removing the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar or 1/2" drive torque wrench (for removal).
- Remove both front wheels and set them aside.
Step 3: Access the caliper and remove the slide pin bolts
- Turn the steering wheel for more room (left to work on the right side, right to work on the left side).
- Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower).
- Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket and rotor.
- Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand. If they’re stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
- Remove the old pad clips/shims from the bracket (these are the thin metal “tracks” the pads slide on).
- Use brake parts cleaner spray and a wire brush to clean the bracket pad lands (the areas where the clips sit).
Step 5: Compress the caliper pistons
- Spray the caliper face lightly with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe with a shop towel (use your disposable nitrile gloves).
- Place one old pad against the pistons, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the pistons back in.
- Because your Forester uses a multi-piston front caliper, compress evenly—alternate pressure so both pistons go in smoothly.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; if it gets too full, remove a little fluid with a suction tool (do not overflow).
Step 6: Install new hardware and new pads
- Install the new pad clips/shims from the front brake hardware kit into the bracket.
- Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to the pad ears (the metal ends that slide in the clips). Keep grease off pad friction material.
- Slide the new pads into the bracket in the same positions as the originals.
Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolts
- Lower the caliper back over the new pads.
- Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
- Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Use a 19mm socket with a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range) to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
âś… After Repair
- 🦶 With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
- đź§´ Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
- 🔍 Look around each front caliper for any leaks or twisted hoses.
- đźš— Do a cautious test drive. Start with a few gentle stops.
- 🛣️ Pad bed-in: make 6–10 medium stops from ~30–40 mph to ~5 mph, with cool-down driving between stops. Avoid hard braking for the first 150–200 miles.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $70-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$480 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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