How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2016-2017 Hyundai Veloster (DIY Step-by-Step Guide) (Trim: Rally Edition)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts, bracket bolts, and lug nuts
How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2016-2017 Hyundai Veloster (DIY Step-by-Step Guide) (Trim: Rally Edition)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts, bracket bolts, and lug nuts for 2016
đź”§ Veloster - Front Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing the front brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage to your rotors. On your Veloster, this is a straightforward “floating caliper” setup: you remove the caliper, swap pads, compress the piston, then reassemble and torque everything correctly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: stock single-piston floating front calipers.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
- ⚠️ Brake dust and cleaner are harmful—use safety glasses and a mask, and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
- Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
- Flat trim/pry tool
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Dust mask
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant (silicone/ceramic) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Crack the front lug nuts loose before lifting the car using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (about 1/4 turn).
- Open the hood and check brake fluid level in the reservoir. As you compress the piston, the level can rise—remove a little fluid if it’s at MAX using shop towels (do not overflow).
- Pro tip: Take a photo before disassembly.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the front end
- Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the front center jack point.
- Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) at the proper front support points.
- Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
Step 2: Locate the caliper bolts and prep the caliper
- Turn the steering so the caliper you’re working on faces outward for easier access.
- Inspect the brake hose routing and make sure it won’t get twisted.
- Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean loose dust around the caliper.
Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not hang it by the hose)
- Remove the caliper guide/slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
- Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. If it’s tight, gently push it back with a flat trim/pry tool against the old pad backing plate.
- Support the caliper with a bungee cord from the strut spring. A bungee prevents hose damage.
Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware
- Pull the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
- Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
- Clean the bracket pad “rails” (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket (if required for hardware/rotor access)
- If you need more room or are replacing the clips/servicing the bracket thoroughly, remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2" drive).
- Reinstall the bracket and Torque to 80–95 Nm (59–70 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range).
- Pro tip: Keep bolts organized by location.
Step 6: Compress the caliper piston
- Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
- Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- A piston compressor tool is a screw tool that pushes the piston back evenly.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing and stop if it’s about to overflow.
Step 7: Install new hardware and pads
- Install new abutment clips from the front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) onto the bracket.
- Apply a thin film of brake lubricant (silicone/ceramic) where the pad ears contact the clips (metal-to-metal sliding points only).
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket. Make sure they slide freely.
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque the slide bolts
- Lower the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide/guide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
- Torque to 25–35 Nm (18–26 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range).
- Confirm the brake hose is not twisted and the caliper moves smoothly on the slides.
Step 9: Reinstall the wheel
- Put the wheel back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench (10–200 Nm range).
- Torque to 90–110 Nm (66–81 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Repeat on the other front wheel
- Repeat Steps 1–9 on the opposite side using the same tools and torque specs.
- Pro tip: Do one side at a time.
âś… After Repair
- With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
- Check brake fluid level and top up only if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid shown on the reservoir cap).
- Start the engine and confirm the pedal still feels firm.
- Test drive at low speed first and verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
- Brake pad bed-in (recommended): make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph with cool-down driving between stops. Avoid hard stops at first.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range).
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$270 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Hyundai vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 Hyundai Veloster | Turbo | - | - |
| 2017 Hyundai Veloster | Turbo R-Spec | - | - |
| 2016 Hyundai Veloster | Rally Edition | - | - |
| 2016 Hyundai Veloster | Turbo | - | - |
| 2016 Hyundai Veloster | Turbo R-Spec | - | - |


















