🔧 QX60 - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents damage to the brake rotors. You’ll remove the front caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads), swap pads, compress the piston, and reassemble with correct torque.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—wear a dust mask and use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a bungee cord.
• ⚠️ Brake parts get hot—let everything cool before starting.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for front pad replacement on your QX60.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask
• Turkey baster

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🛞 Slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• 🧪 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level. If it’s near “MAX,” remove a little with a turkey baster (compressing pistons can overflow the reservoir).
• Tip: Do one side at a time for reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the QX60

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and remove the caliper bolts

• The caliper is the metal “clamp” over the rotor; it holds the brake pads.
• Use a 14mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Use a bungee cord to support it from the strut spring.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Pull the old inner and outer pads out by hand. If they’re tight, use a flathead screwdriver gently.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the caliper bracket.
• Use a wire brush to clean the bracket “pad lands” (where the clips sit), then spray with brake cleaner and wipe with shop towels.

Step 4: Compress the caliper piston

• The piston is the round plunger inside the caliper that pushes the pads.
• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and check the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress.
• Tip: Slow compression helps protect the seals.

Step 5: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears slide in the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor surface; clean with brake cleaner if you do.

Step 6: Install new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• If your pad set includes a wear indicator (a small metal “squealer”), match it to how the old pads were installed on that side.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–8 on the other side.
• Tip: Don’t press the brake pedal with a caliper off.

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• 🧪 Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed (do not overfill).
• 🔍 Look for leaks and confirm both calipers are securely bolted.
• 🛣️ Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 medium stops from ~30–40 mph down to ~5 mph, with cooling time between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• 🧭 On the first drive, test brakes at low speed before normal traffic speeds.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.