🔧 Explorer - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You'll remove the front wheels, take off the brake calipers, swap the pads, and reassemble everything with the correct torque. This will restore braking performance and reduce noise if your pads are worn.

Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the vehicle with jack stands. Never work under a car held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Brakes and wheels can get very hot after driving. Let the car cool completely before starting.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; you could pop the piston out.
• ⚠️ Keep all brake parts clean. Do not touch the pad friction surface with greasy hands.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner spray.
• ⚠️ This job does not require battery disconnection on the Explorer, but keep ignition OFF while working on brakes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Lug wrench (or 19mm impact socket with breaker bar)
• 🛠️ Socket set (8mm–21mm)
• 🛠️ 13mm socket
• 🛠️ 15mm socket
• 🛠️ 1/4" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 30–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Brake caliper piston tool or large C-clamp
• 🛠️ Small wire brush
• 🛠️ Bungee cord or strong wire
• 🛠️ Shop rags
• 🛠️ Disposable gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses

A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a specific force.

A C-clamp is a simple clamp that squeezes the caliper piston back in.

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Front brake pad set (for Explorer Platinum, both sides) - Qty: 1 set (replace in pairs)
• 🔩 Front brake pad hardware kit (anti-rattle clips / abutment clips) - Qty: 1 set
• 🔩 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🔩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans
• 🔩 Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 (optional but recommended if worn, grooved, or below minimum thickness)
• 🔩 New caliper bracket bolts - Qty: 4 (optional; replace if heavily corroded or per local practice)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Explorer on a flat, solid surface. Put the transmission in PARK and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent rolling.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with the lug wrench before lifting the vehicle.
• Have a clean area ready to lay out removed parts in order.
• Keep the ignition OFF during the job so no automatic features try to move.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the lug wrench to slightly loosen (do not remove) the front wheel lug nuts while the Explorer is still on the ground.
• Position the floor jack (3-ton) under the front center jacking point (front subframe crossmember). Pump the jack until both front wheels are off the ground.
• Place jack stands under the left and right front pinch welds or frame points. Slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Give the vehicle a gentle push to ensure it is stable on the jack stands.

Step 2: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the lug wrench or 19mm socket with 1/2" ratchet to remove the front wheel lug nuts completely.
• Remove both front wheels and set them aside safely.

Step 3: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Identify the brake caliper (the part that squeezes the pads), the caliper bracket, the brake rotor, and the brake pads between the caliper and rotor.
• Use the brake cleaner spray to lightly clean the caliper and rotor. Catch drips with shop rags.
• Do not spray brake cleaner on painted body surfaces.

Step 4: Remove the Caliper Guide Pin Bolts

• On the back of the caliper, locate the two guide pin bolts (top and bottom).
• Use a 13mm socket with 3/8" ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide pin bolts.
• Carefully slide the caliper off the rotor. If it sticks, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver between the pad and rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord or wire from the suspension spring so it does not hang by the brake hose.
• Do NOT let the caliper hang from the rubber hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Remove the old hardware clips (thin metal pieces where pads sit) from the caliper bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Use a small wire brush to clean the areas of the bracket where the clips sit and where the pad ears rest.
• Clean metal surfaces help pads slide freely.

Step 6: (Optional but Recommended) Remove Caliper Bracket and Inspect Rotors

• If you are replacing rotors or want more room, remove the caliper bracket:
• Use a 15mm socket with 1/2" ratchet to remove the two large caliper bracket bolts on the back of the knuckle.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
• Slide the rotor off the hub. If stuck, tap around the hat area with a rubber mallet.
• Check the rotor for deep grooves, cracks, or a big lip at the edge. Replace if needed.
• When reinstalling a rotor, clean both sides with brake cleaner to remove oil coating.
• Reinstall the caliper bracket with the 15mm socket and tighten the two bracket bolts to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs) using the 1/2" torque wrench.

Step 7: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Before pushing the piston back, pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Remove the cap and set it loosely on top. This lets fluid move back easily.
• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use the caliper piston tool or large C-clamp to slowly press the piston back into the caliper until it bottoms out.
• Go slowly and keep the caliper square so you do not damage the seal.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir. If it gets close to full, use a shop rag and small suction tool to remove a little fluid.

Step 8: Install New Hardware Clips

• Clip the new hardware clips into the cleaned caliper bracket by hand. They should snap in firmly.
• Make sure they sit flat and fully seated; misaligned clips can cause noise.
• Apply a very thin film of brake grease on the areas of the clips where the pad ears will touch.
• Do not get grease on pad friction surfaces or rotor.

Step 9: Install the New Brake Pads

• Identify the inner pad and outer pad. Often, the inner pad has a spring clip or wear sensor tab depending on the pad design.
• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket rails, making sure the friction material faces the rotor.
• If your pads have built-in wear indicators, install them in the same positions as the old pads.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Over the New Pads

• Lower the caliper down over the new pads and rotor.
• Line up the caliper with the caliper bracket guide pin holes.
• Reinstall the guide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 13mm socket with 3/8" ratchet to snug the guide pin bolts, then use the 3/8" torque wrench to tighten them to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the Other Front Side

• Repeat Steps 3–10 for the other front wheel.
• Always replace pads on both sides of an axle at the same time.

Step 12: Reinstall Wheels and Lower the Vehicle

• Reinstall each front wheel on the hub and start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use the lug wrench or 19mm socket with 1/2" ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern while the Explorer is still on jack stands.
• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
• Use the 1/2" torque wrench with 19mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Final Checks Under the Hood

• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Adjust to the “MAX” line if needed using the correct brake fluid type (usually DOT 3 or DOT 4 as specified on the cap).
• Reinstall the reservoir cap securely.

Step 14: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver’s seat with the engine OFF.
• Press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Do this before moving the vehicle.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine while pressing the brake pedal. The pedal should feel firm and not sink to the floor.
• Check around both front brakes for any leaks or loose parts (visual check).
• Perform a short, low-speed test drive in an open area. Gently apply the brakes several times to verify proper operation and listen for abnormal noises.
• For new pads and rotors, bed them in: make 5–8 moderate stops from 30–10 km/h (20–6 mph), then 3–4 harder stops from 50–20 km/h (30–12 mph), letting brakes cool between stops.
• Avoid hard emergency-style stops from high speed for the first 300–500 km (200–300 miles) unless necessary.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300–$500 (parts + labor) for front pads, possibly more if rotors are replaced.

DIY Cost: $80–$200 (parts only, depending on pad/rotor quality)

You Save: $200–$300+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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