🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the front brake calipers, swap in new pads, and then reassemble and test. New pads restore safe stopping power and prevent rotor damage when the old pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands, not just a jack.
• 🧤 Brake dust is irritating—wear a mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
• 🔥 Brakes can be very hot—let everything cool before touching the caliper/rotor.
• 🪝 Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hook/strap.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Brake caliper hook
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 (top-off as needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts about 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. This is where the fluid level may rise when you push the caliper piston back in.
• Tip: Put a rag under the reservoir cap.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Lift the front at the proper jacking point using a floor jack.
• Set the car down onto jack stands and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both front wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Access the caliper and pads

• Turn the steering wheel for better access (left side: turn wheel right; right side: turn wheel left).
• Look at the caliper (the part that squeezes the rotor). You’ll be removing the two caliper slide bolts.

Step 4: Remove the caliper slide bolts

• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Carefully pivot the caliper up and off the pads.
• Support the caliper with a brake caliper hook so the brake hose is not stretched.
• Tip: Don’t twist or kink the rubber hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old inner and outer pads out by hand. If they’re stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper. (A C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes the piston in evenly.)
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir—fluid level may rise.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips (metal-to-metal sliding points only).
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the bracket.
• Tip: Keep grease off pad friction material.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand (don’t force it—if it won’t fit, the piston isn’t fully compressed).
• Install the caliper slide bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
• Check brake fluid level at the reservoir and top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal, then do a slow test stop in a safe area.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing short cool-down time between stops.
• Recheck for leaks, unusual noises, or pulling to one side.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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