🔧 Accord - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, swing the front brake calipers out of the way, replace the pads and hardware, and compress the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. This restores safe braking and prevents grinding and rotor damage when pads are worn.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and support your Accord with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves; brake dust and brake cleaner are irritating.
• 🔥 Brakes get hot—let the front brakes cool before touching the caliper/rotor.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• 🧴 Watch the brake fluid reservoir level when compressing pistons; remove excess if it starts to overflow.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap sitting on top (not tightly closed) so fluid can move as you compress pistons.
• Break the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn before lifting the car.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the front and remove both front wheels

• Use a 19mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts (do not remove yet).
• Lift the front using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support the car on jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (turn left to work on the right side, and vice versa).
• On the back of the caliper, remove the two slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper up and off the pads/rotor.
• Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a bungee cord so it doesn’t pull on the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (abutment clips) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” (where the clips sit) using brake parts cleaner, shop rags, and a wire brush.

Step 4: Install the new pad hardware and prep the pads

• Install the new abutment clips from the front brake pad hardware kit into the bracket (they should snap fully into place).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) where the pad ears contact the clips. Thin layer only—don’t gob it on.
• If your new pads include wear indicators, install them in the same position as the originals (typically on the inner pad).

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. If it’s very full, remove a little with a rag (do not spill on paint).
• Use a C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly push the caliper piston back in. (A C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses the piston in evenly.)
• Go slowly and keep the piston straight; stop once the piston is fully seated.

Step 6: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket, making sure they slide freely on the new clips.
• If a pad feels tight, remove it and re-clean the bracket tracks with wire brush and brake parts cleaner, then re-check fit.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolts

• Lower the caliper back over the new pads.
• Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range).
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) for the front caliper slide pin bolts.

Step 8: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–7 on the other side so both front pads are replaced as a pair.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both front wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range).
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed (do not overfill).
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal remains firm.
• Test-drive at low speed first; verify smooth stopping and no pulling/noise.
• Bed-in gently: avoid hard stops for ~200 miles.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $205-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.