🔧 Explorer - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the front brake calipers, swap the worn pads for new ones, and then reassemble everything with the correct torque. This restores safe stopping power and helps prevent rotor damage and brake noise.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor (the piston can pop out and leak fluid).
• Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• Brake parts get hot; let everything cool before starting.
• Battery disconnect is not required for front brake pads on your Explorer.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" breaker bar
• 1/2" torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2" drive)
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Wire brush
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (do not remove yet).
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; fluid may rise when you compress the caliper piston.
• A “caliper” is the clamp that squeezes pads.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front of the Explorer

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points and lower onto the stands.
• Keep wheel chocks in place at the rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Access the caliper and pads

• Turn the steering wheel to give more room (turn left to work on the right side, and vice-versa).
• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward a tiny bit if needed to relieve pad pressure.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)

• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide/guide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring/strut using a bungee cord.
• Never hang the caliper by the hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Spray the bracket pad lands with brake cleaner spray and scrub with a wire brush until the new clips sit flat.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one of the old pads against the caliper piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood so it does not overflow; remove a little fluid if needed.

Step 7: Service the slide pins and install new hardware

• Pull the caliper slide pins out (if accessible) and wipe them clean.
• Apply a thin, even coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) and reinstall the pins.
• Install the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket.
• Grease only the pins, not pad friction surfaces.

Step 8: Install the new front pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket (match the inner pad to the piston side).
• Make sure the pads slide freely in the new hardware clips.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Position the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide/guide bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and thread lug nuts on by hand.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a 21mm socket with a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

Step 11: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1–10 for the other side.
• Always replace pads in pairs (both front wheels).

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✅ After Repair

• Before moving the Explorer, pump the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Road test at low speed first; confirm normal braking and no pulling.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph with cool-down time between stops (avoid hard panic stops at first).
• Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive if possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.