🔧 Explorer - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take the brake caliper off, swap the old pads for new ones, and compress the caliper piston so everything fits back together. Worn pads reduce braking power and can damage the rotors if driven too long.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground; use jack stands—never rely on the jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brakes may be hot; let them cool before touching parts.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.
• ⚠️ If fluid level is near “MAX,” be ready to remove a little when compressing pistons.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• C-clamp (6")
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧰 Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• 🧰 Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting the vehicle.
• 🧰 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap seated but be ready to monitor fluid level during piston compression.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front end

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Explorer at the proper front jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the proper support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Confirm stability by gently rocking the vehicle before working.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Remove the brake caliper

• The caliper is the clamp that squeezes the pads onto the rotor.
• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room to work on the side you’re doing.
• Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor and support it with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully pop off the old pad hardware clips (metal “tracks” the pads slide on).
• Use a wire brush and brake cleaner spray to clean the pad contact areas on the bracket.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• The caliper piston is the round push-point that forces the inner pad against the rotor.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood before compressing.
• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• If the reservoir starts to overflow, remove a small amount of fluid and keep it below “MAX.”
• Compress slowly to avoid damaging seals.

Step 6: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install the new hardware clips from the front brake pad hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (high-temp silicone) where the pad “ears” touch the hardware clips (metal-to-metal slide points only).
• Slide the new pads into the bracket in the same positions as the old ones.
• Use brake cleaner spray to remove any grease fingerprints from the rotor and pad friction surfaces.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• If you removed the caliper bracket bolts for any reason, reinstall them using an 18mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 184 Nm (136 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• ✅ Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT rating shown on the reservoir cap).
• ✅ Test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• ✅ Pad bed-in (typical): make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30-40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹12,000-₹25,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹4,000-₹12,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹8,000-₹13,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates vary; this job is typically 1.5-3.0 hours at a shop.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.