🔧 Traverse - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. On your Traverse, you’ll remove the front caliper, swap pads and hardware, compress the caliper piston, then reassemble and torque everything properly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Traverse with jack stands on the proper lift points; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful—avoid blowing with air; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a strap.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately and keep the cap area clean.
• ⚠️ If the brake fluid reservoir is full, fluid may rise when you compress the piston; remove a little fluid if needed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Flat blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake parts cleaner
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 Optional if worn/grooved

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🧴 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; loosen the cap (leave it sitting on top) so pressure can vent.
• 🧻 If fluid is near the “MAX” line, use a clean turkey baster/syringe to remove a small amount so it won’t overflow when the piston is pushed back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the front

• Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to crack the front wheel lug nuts loose (about 1/2 turn) while the tire is on the ground.
• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with the 22mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Inspect the brake setup

• Use safety glasses and look at pad thickness and rotor condition.
• Deep grooves or heavy rust lips suggest new rotors.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (floating caliper)

• Use a flat blade screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward a little (this helps create space).
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper guide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the strut spring with a bungee cord (do not stretch the hose).
• A “floating caliper” slides on guide pins.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using a flat blade screwdriver.
• Clean the pad “slides” (where clips sit) with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper until fully seated.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; stop and remove fluid if it starts to overflow.
• Go slow to avoid damaging the master cylinder.

Step 6: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Install the new abutment clips onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor face.

Step 7: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• If your pads include a wear indicator, match the position to the old pad set (typically on the inner pad).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket.
• Torque to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Put the wheel back on and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the Traverse off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a 22mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1 through 9 on the other side.
• Always replace front pads as a pair.

Step 11: Restore pedal feel and fluid level

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Set the brake fluid level to the “MAX” line using brake fluid (DOT 3) if needed, then tighten the reservoir cap by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Test in the driveway: start the engine and confirm the brake pedal feels normal (not sinking).
• 👂 Listen for abnormal grinding/squealing on the first short drive.
• 🛣️ Bed-in the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops.
• 🔍 Recheck brake fluid level and look for leaks around both calipers.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$420 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Assumption: Standard front floating calipers and factory wheel hardware for your Traverse.