How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2008 Honda Accord (DIY Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts and lug nuts
How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2008 Honda Accord (DIY Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts and lug nuts


š§ Accord - Front Brake Pad Replacement
Youāll be removing the front wheel, lifting the brake caliper off the rotor, swapping the old pads for new ones, then reassembling and torquing everything correctly. This restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Work on level ground and use jack standsānever rely on a jack alone.
- ā ļø Brakes may be hot; let them cool before starting.
- ā ļø Do not inhale brake dustāuse brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ā ļø Donāt let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a strap.
- ā ļø If brake fluid rises near the reservoir cap when compressing the piston, remove a little fluid with a clean syringe/turkey baster.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or 19mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
- C-clamp (6")
- Large flathead screwdriver
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner spray
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 (optional if worn/pulsation)
š Before You Begin
- Park on a flat surface, leave the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn with a lug wrench or 19mm socket before lifting.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; youāll watch the level when pushing the piston back.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car
- Use a floor jack at the front jacking point and raise the front end.
- Set the car onto jack stands and gently shake the car to confirm itās stable.
Step 2: Remove the front wheel
- Remove the lug nuts using a lug wrench or 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.
Step 3: Locate the caliper and remove the caliper slide-pin bolts
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself space to work (turn left to work on the right side, and vice-versa).
- Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket.
- Slide pins are the caliperās guide bolts.
Step 4: Lift the caliper off and support it
- Wiggle the caliper off the rotor; if itās stuck, gently pry with a large flathead screwdriver.
- Hang the caliper from the spring/strut using a bungee cord (do not hang it by the hose).
Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
- Remove the pad āclipsā (abutment clips) from the bracket by hand or with a large flathead screwdriver.
- Clean the bracket pad-rest areas with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.
Step 6: Compress the caliper piston
- Place one old brake pad against the piston face (as a buffer), then slowly compress the piston using a C-clamp (6").
- Check the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; donāt let it overflow.
- Go slowly to avoid seal damage.
Step 7: Lubricate and install new pad hardware and pads
- Install the new abutment clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand (they snap in).
- Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to:
- The pad ears where they contact the clips
- The caliper slide pin contact areas (if accessible)
- Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor surface.
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper
- Place the caliper back over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket.
- Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the wheel
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Repeat on the other front side
- Repeat Steps 1-9 for the other front wheel (always replace pads on both sides).
ā After Repair
- With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
- Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
- Start the engine and confirm the pedal still feels firm.
- Test-drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
- Bed-in (break-in) procedure: make 6-10 moderate stops from 30-40 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 150-200 miles.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $110-$405 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
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