Howtoo Logo
2008 Honda Accord
2008 Honda Accord
EX - Inline 4 2.4L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

ā€œHow do I connect my phone to my stereo?ā€

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

ā€œWhat is my horsepower and torqueā€

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

ā€œWhat is this warning light on my dash?ā€

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

ā€œI have a P0300 engine codeā€

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

ā€œWhat vehicle is this?ā€

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

ā€œFind a shop to do this repairā€

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

ā€œWhat’s your favorite vehicle of all time?ā€

How to Replace Front Brake Pads 2008-2012 Honda Accord

How to Replace Front Brake Pads 2008-2012 Honda Accord

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2008 Honda Accord (DIY Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts and lug nuts

How to Replace Front Brake Pads on a 2008 Honda Accord (DIY Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for caliper bolts and lug nuts

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ Accord - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the front wheel, lifting the brake caliper off the rotor, swapping the old pads for new ones, then reassembling and torquing everything correctly. This restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
  • āš ļø Brakes may be hot; let them cool before starting.
  • āš ļø Do not inhale brake dust—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • āš ļø Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a strap.
  • āš ļø If brake fluid rises near the reservoir cap when compressing the piston, remove a little fluid with a clean syringe/turkey baster.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug wrench or 19mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 12mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
  • C-clamp (6")
  • Large flathead screwdriver
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 (optional if worn/pulsation)

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on a flat surface, leave the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn with a lug wrench or 19mm socket before lifting.
  • Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll watch the level when pushing the piston back.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

  • Use a floor jack at the front jacking point and raise the front end.
  • Set the car onto jack stands and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheel

  • Remove the lug nuts using a lug wrench or 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 3: Locate the caliper and remove the caliper slide-pin bolts

  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself space to work (turn left to work on the right side, and vice-versa).
  • Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket.
  • Slide pins are the caliper’s guide bolts.

Step 4: Lift the caliper off and support it

  • Wiggle the caliper off the rotor; if it’s stuck, gently pry with a large flathead screwdriver.
  • Hang the caliper from the spring/strut using a bungee cord (do not hang it by the hose).

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand.
  • Remove the pad ā€œclipsā€ (abutment clips) from the bracket by hand or with a large flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad-rest areas with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place one old brake pad against the piston face (as a buffer), then slowly compress the piston using a C-clamp (6").
  • Check the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; don’t let it overflow.
  • Go slowly to avoid seal damage.

Step 7: Lubricate and install new pad hardware and pads

  • Install the new abutment clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand (they snap in).
  • Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to:
    • The pad ears where they contact the clips
    • The caliper slide pin contact areas (if accessible)
  • Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor surface.
  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

  • Place the caliper back over the new pads.
  • Install the caliper slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket.
  • Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other front side

  • Repeat Steps 1-9 for the other front wheel (always replace pads on both sides).

āœ… After Repair

  • With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
  • Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
  • Start the engine and confirm the pedal still feels firm.
  • Test-drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
  • Bed-in (break-in) procedure: make 6-10 moderate stops from 30-40 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 150-200 miles.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$405 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


šŸŽÆ Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn