🔧 Impala - Front Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the front brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents damage to the rotors. On your Impala, the pads sit inside the front calipers, and you’ll remove the caliper to swap them, then compress the piston to fit the new thicker pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; avoid blowing it with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake parts can be hot; let the brakes cool first.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it damages finishes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Breaker bar (3/8" or 1/2")
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Small drip pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts lubricant (anti-squeal) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn using a lug wrench or 19mm socket before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap loosely set on top (do not remove fully unless needed). This helps when compressing the piston.
• Take a photo of pad/clip layout first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the front support points and lower the car onto them.
• Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a lug wrench or 19mm socket and take off both front wheels.
• Set the wheels aside flat so they can’t roll.

Step 3: Locate the caliper and loosen the slide pin bolts

• Turn the steering knuckle for access (hand-turn the hub/steering as needed).
• On the back of the caliper, remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• If bolts are tight, use a breaker bar carefully to crack them loose.
• Slide pins are the caliper’s “hinges.”

Step 4: Remove the caliper and support it

• Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry if it’s stuck.
• Hang the caliper from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware clips

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the old pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “shelves” with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner spray into a small drip pan.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old brake pad against the piston face to protect it.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston back into the caliper until it bottoms out.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress; if it starts to overflow, stop and remove a little fluid (do not spill on paint).
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 7: Install new hardware clips and lubricate contact points

• Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) to the pad contact points where the pad ears touch the clips (not on the pad friction surface).
• Apply brake parts lubricant (anti-squeal) to the back of the pads where they contact the caliper/piston (not on the pad friction surface).

Step 8: Install the new brake pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the bracket until they sit squarely in the clips.
• Make sure the pads move freely in the clips (they shouldn’t be jammed).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Put the wheels back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Restore pedal feel before driving

• With the car on the ground, pump the brake pedal slowly 8–12 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Do a low-speed test stop in a safe area to confirm normal braking and no pulling.
• Listen for abnormal grinding or clicking; re-check pad seating if you hear it.
• Recheck brake fluid level after the test drive.
• Pad break-in (typical): 8–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph with cool-down time between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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