🔧 4Runner - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, swing the front brake calipers out of the way, and replace the worn pads with new ones. This restores safe braking and prevents rotor damage from pads wearing too thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your 4Runner with jack stands before working under/around the wheels.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• 🛑 Brakes may contain dust—avoid breathing it; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Work on one side at a time so you can reference the other side if needed.
• 🛑 Keep grease off the pad friction material and rotor faces.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/4 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. You’ll be pushing fluid back when compressing pistons—make sure it won’t overflow.
• Torque wrench = tool that tightens to exact spec.
• Caliper = the clamp that squeezes pads on the rotor.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the 4Runner at the front jacking point.
• Set the frame securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

• Remove all lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Remove the wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (don’t disconnect the brake hose)

• Turn the steering wheel for better access to the caliper you’re working on.
• Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts using a 17mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it’s not hanging by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the pad clips/shims from the bracket.
• Clean the pad ledges (where pads slide) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Compress the caliper pistons

• Place one old pad against the pistons to spread pressure evenly.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the pistons back into the caliper.
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install new pad clips/shims (from the hardware kit) into the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease where pads contact the clips (metal-to-metal slide points only).
• Slide the new inner and outer pads into place.
• Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Set the caliper back over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the 2 caliper mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 1–8 for the other front wheel.

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level; top off only if needed (do not overfill).
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal.
• Test drive at low speed first, then recheck for any abnormal noises.
• Pad bed-in (best practice): make 6–10 smooth stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, leaving time between stops for cooling.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$200 (parts only)

You Save: $150-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.