🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the front wheels, taking off the front brake calipers, swapping the pads, and then reassembling and testing the brakes. This restores stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads are worn.

Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ❗ Always support your Altima with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
• ❗ Work on a flat, solid surface with the transmission in Park and parking brake fully applied.
• ❗ Brakes and wheels can be very hot after driving; let everything cool before you start.
• ❗ Brake dust is harmful; avoid breathing it in and do not use compressed air to blow it off.
• ❗ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage painted surfaces. Wipe spills immediately.
• ❗ Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a visual reference.
• ❗ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ 21mm socket
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ 14mm socket
• 🛠️ 19mm or 22mm socket
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-75 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ C-clamp (6" or larger)
• 🛠️ Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Needle-nose pliers
• 🛠️ Wire brush (small)
• 🛠️ Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
• 🛠️ Shop rags
• 🛠️ Disposable gloves
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Brake cleaner spray
• 🛠️ Small catch pan or tray

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🧩 Front brake pad set (left and right) - Qty: 1 set
• 🧩 Front brake pad hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1 set
• 🧩 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🧩 Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
• 🧩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🧩 Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 (optional but recommended if worn)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the car cannot roll.
• Loosen (do not remove) front wheel lug nuts with the 21mm socket while the car is still on the ground.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Note the fluid level; if it is near “MAX,” you may need to remove a little fluid later.
• Wear safety glasses and gloves from start to finish.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front of the Car

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point (under the front subframe crossmember).
• Place jack stands under the pinch welds on both front sides and slowly lower the car onto the stands.
• Double-check stability by gently pushing the car; it should not move.
• Remove the front lug nuts with the 21mm socket and breaker bar, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Inspect the Front Brake Assembly

• Identify the caliper (the part that squeezes the pads), the caliper bracket (mounts to the knuckle), and the rotor (disc).
• Look at how the pads and hardware clips are installed so you can match the new ones.
• Spray a light mist of brake cleaner on the caliper and rotor; catch runoff with the catch pan.

Step 3: Remove the Caliper Slide Pin Bolts

• On the back of the caliper, locate the two small slide pin bolts (top and bottom).
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove both slide pin bolts.
• Gently pry the caliper away from the rotor using the flathead screwdriver if needed.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring using a bungee cord so the hose is not stretched.

Step 4: Remove Old Pads and Hardware

• Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Remove the metal pad hardware clips from the bracket with your fingers or needle-nose pliers.
• Inspect the rotor surface. If it is deeply grooved, heavily rusted, or you feel a lip at the edge, consider replacing the rotors as well.

Step 5: (Optional) Remove Caliper Bracket and Rotor

• If you are replacing rotors, remove the caliper bracket:
• Use the 19mm or 22mm socket and breaker bar on the two larger bolts at the back of the caliper bracket.
• Remove both bracket bolts and take the bracket off.
• Torque on reassembly: 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).
• Pull the rotor off the hub. If stuck, tap around the hat area with your hand (or a soft mallet) until it loosens.
• Clean the hub face with the wire brush and wipe with a rag.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound on the hub face to prevent the rotor from seizing in the future.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub and hold it in place with one lug nut threaded on by hand.

Step 6: Clean and Install New Hardware Clips

• Use the wire brush to clean the pad contact areas of the caliper bracket where the clips sit.
• Spray a little brake cleaner to remove loose rust and wipe dry.
• Press the new pad hardware clips into place by hand until fully seated.
• Apply a very light smear of brake grease on the surfaces of the clips where the pads will slide. Do not get grease on pad friction surfaces.

Step 7: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir; if it is at or above MAX, remove a small amount using a clean syringe or turkey baster into a container.
• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use the C-clamp or brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston back into the caliper until it is fully seated.
• Watch the brake fluid level; do not let it overflow the reservoir.

Step 8: Install New Brake Pads

• Identify inner vs outer pad. Often, the pad with the small metal squeal tab goes on the inner side.
• Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the metal backing plates where they contact the caliper and hardware clips (not on the friction material).
• Slide the new inner pad into the inner side of the bracket, making sure it sits squarely in the clips.
• Slide the new outer pad into the outer side of the bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall the Caliper

• Remove the caliper from the bungee and position it over the new pads.
• Align the slide pin holes with the bracket.
• Make sure the slide pins move freely. If they feel sticky, pull them out, wipe them clean, apply fresh brake grease, and reinstall.
• Install the two 14mm slide pin bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" torque wrench to tighten them to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 3 through 9 on the other front wheel.
• Make sure pad orientation, clips, and caliper positions match the first side.

Step 11: Reinstall Wheels and Lower the Car

• Remove any temporary lug nut holding the rotor.
• Mount the front wheel on the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using the 21mm socket and ratchet.
• Raise the car slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the car fully to the ground.
• Use the 21mm socket and 1/2" torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Set Brake Fluid Level and Pump Pedal

• Check the brake fluid reservoir and adjust to just below the MAX line if needed.
• Sit in the driver’s seat and slowly press the brake pedal several times until it becomes firm. This seats the pads.
• Double-check around both front calipers for any leaks (should be none).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and press the brake pedal a few more times; it should feel firm and consistent.
• Perform a low-speed test drive: start at about 10–15 mph, apply the brakes gently to confirm normal operation and no pulling to one side.
• Listen for unusual noises (grinding, loud squeals). Light noise for the first few stops can be normal.
• Bed-in the new pads by doing 5–8 gentle stops from 25–30 mph to 5 mph, allowing a short cool-down between each stop. Avoid hard panic stops at first.
• After the drive, recheck lug nut torque and visually inspect the calipers and pads.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $280-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$160 (parts only, front pads and hardware; add $100-$180 if you include rotors)

You Save: $200-$260+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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