🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll be replacing the front brake pads and brake rotors on your Altima. This restores stopping power, prevents vibration while braking, and helps protect the calipers from damage.

Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands; never work under a car held only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Brakes can get very hot after driving. Let the brakes cool fully before starting.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect your eyes and hands.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; it can push the piston out.
• ⚠️ Keep all grease and oil off the friction surfaces of pads and rotors.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground with the parking brake firmly applied and the transmission in Park.
• ⚠️ You do not need to disconnect the battery for this job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet wrench
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive ratchet wrench
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (5–80 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive torque wrench (30–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ 14mm socket
• 🛠️ 19mm socket
• 🛠️ 21mm socket
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• 🛠️ C-clamp (6" or larger)
• 🛠️ Bungee cords or wire hangers
• 🛠️ Wire brush (small, steel)
• 🛠️ Brake cleaner spray
• 🛠️ Shop rags
• 🛠️ Disposable nitrile gloves
• 🛠️ Small pick tool or awl

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🧩 Front brake pad set (left and right) - Qty: 1 set
• 🧩 Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• 🧩 Front brake pad hardware kit (abuttment/anti-rattle clips) - Qty: 1 set
• 🧩 Brake lubricant (high-temperature silicone or ceramic grease) - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🧩 Brake cleaner - Qty: 1–2 cans
• 🧩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: small packet (optional but recommended)

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Altima on level ground, put the transmission in Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent rolling.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly with the 21mm socket before lifting the car.
• Have a clean area ready to lay out removed parts in order.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the driver’s side near the firewall. Check the level; if it’s very full, be ready to remove a little with a clean syringe or turkey baster when you compress the pistons.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Front of the Car

• Use the floor jack under the front center jacking point (behind the front bumper, on the subframe) to raise the front of the Altima.
• Place jack stands under the factory pinch welds or frame points on both sides and slowly lower the car onto them with the floor jack.
• Leave the floor jack just touching for extra safety, but not holding the weight.

Step 2: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and either a ratchet or lug wrench to fully remove the front wheel lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them aside.
• Keep lug nuts together so none go missing.

Step 3: Inspect the Brake Setup

• Look at the front brakes: the outer piece clamping the rotor is the caliper, and the bracket holding it is the caliper bracket.
• Note how the pads are seated and where the hardware clips are; you’ll reinstall them the same way.

Step 4: Remove the Caliper (Front Left Side First)

• Turn the steering wheel to the right to give better access to the left caliper.
• On the back of the caliper, locate the two slide pin bolts (upper and lower) that hold the caliper to the bracket.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the upper and lower slide pin bolts.
• Carefully slide the caliper off the pads and rotor. If it’s stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver between the pad and rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord or wire hanger from the suspension spring so it does not hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Note which side had the pad with the wear indicator tab (if equipped); usually it goes on the inside pad.
• Use a small pick tool to remove the metal hardware clips from the caliper bracket.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Locate the two large caliper bracket bolts on the back of the steering knuckle.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper bracket bolts. They may be tight; use steady force.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.

Step 7: Remove the Old Rotor

• Slide the brake rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck due to rust, tap around the hat (center) area with a rubber mallet from the back side to break it loose.
• If the rotor is heavily rusted to the hub, spray a little brake cleaner around the center and let it soak, then tap again.

Step 8: Clean the Hub Surface

• Use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the wheel hub face where the rotor sits. Remove all loose rust and debris.
• Wipe with a shop rag and brake cleaner so the surface is smooth and flat.
• Apply a very thin coat of anti-seize compound to the hub face to help prevent future rotor sticking. Avoid the wheel studs.

Step 9: Install the New Rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove the protective oil coating, then wipe dry with a shop rag.
• Place the new rotor onto the hub, lining up the lug holes with the studs.
• Thread on one lug nut by hand using the 21mm socket to hold the rotor snug against the hub while you work.

Step 10: Prepare and Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Use the wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket where the hardware clips sit.
• Install the new hardware clips from your hardware kit into the caliper bracket. They should snap firmly into place.
• Reposition the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Install the caliper bracket bolts by hand, then tighten them with the 19mm socket and 1/2" ratchet.
• Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs) using the 1/2" torque wrench.

Step 11: Install the New Brake Pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the metal ears of the pads where they contact the hardware clips, and to the back plate where it contacts the caliper or piston. Do not get any on the pad friction surface.
• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket, making sure they sit fully in the hardware clips.
• If one pad has a wear indicator tab, install it in the same location as the old one (usually inner pad, leading edge).

Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Set the caliper on top of the new pads to see how far the piston needs to be pushed back.
• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool between the back of the caliper and the old pad to slowly push the piston back into the caliper housing.
• Go slowly and check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood; if the level gets close to the top, remove some fluid with a clean syringe or turkey baster.
• Once the piston is fully seated, remove the tool and old pad.

Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper

• Position the caliper over the new pads and onto the caliper bracket.
• Make sure the rubber slide pin boots are not twisted and the slide pins move freely.
• Install the upper and lower caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
• Tighten them with a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, then torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) using the 3/8" torque wrench.

Step 14: Repeat on the Right Side

• Turn the steering wheel to the left to access the right side more easily.
• Repeat Steps 4 through 13 for the front right brake assembly.
• Do one side at a time for reference.

Step 15: Reinstall the Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor, if used.
• Mount each front wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts using the 21mm socket.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern with the 1/2" ratchet, but do not fully torque yet.

Step 16: Lower the Car and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise the car slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car fully to the ground.
• Use the 21mm socket and 1/2" torque wrench to torque the front lug nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal and Check Fluid

• Sit in the driver’s seat and slowly press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Adjust to the “MAX” line if needed using the correct brake fluid type listed on the cap.
• Inspect around each caliper for any leaks or loose parts.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and gently press the brake pedal; it should feel firm, not spongy or sinking.
• With the car in gear at low speed, test the brakes in a safe, open area. Listen for grinding or odd noises.
• For the first 300–500 km, avoid very hard braking to properly bed-in the pads and rotors.
• After a short drive, check that the wheels are not excessively hot and re-check the lug nut torque.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350–$550 (parts + labor) for front pads and rotors

DIY Cost: $150–$280 (parts only)

You Save: $200–$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.