🔧 Highlander - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the front calipers, swapping the pads, and replacing the rotors on your Highlander. New rotors give the new pads a flat, clean surface so you get smooth braking and avoid vibration.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the SUV on jack stands—never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Brakes may be hot; let everything cool before touching rotors/calipers.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber hose; it can damage the hose.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Wear a dust mask if you’re sensitive to brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Large flat screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• M8-1.25 x 30mm bolts
• 12mm wrench
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the rear wheels.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Pop the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (just set it on top). This helps the pistons compress easier.
• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room (turn left to work on the right side, and vice versa).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Lift the front of your Highlander using a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Remove the front brake caliper (and support it)

• Find the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper and remove them using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a large flat screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring/strut using a bungee cord.
• Tip: Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips from the bracket (they usually pull off). Use a large flat screwdriver if needed.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• The “caliper bracket” is the metal frame the pads sit in.
• Remove the two bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside. You’ll reinstall it after the new rotor is on.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it’s stuck from rust, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor “hat” area firmly (avoid the wheel studs).
• If it still won’t come off, thread the M8-1.25 x 30mm bolts into the two rotor push-off holes evenly, turning them with a 12mm wrench until the rotor pops free.

Step 6: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor

• Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush. A clean hub helps prevent brake vibration.
• Spray the new rotor surfaces with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels to remove protective oil.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket with new hardware

• Reinstall the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).
• Install the new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket (they snap into place). Use a large flat screwdriver if you need gentle persuasion.

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before pushing the piston in, place one old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp to slowly press the piston back into the caliper until it’s fully seated.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; if it gets too full, stop and remove some fluid safely.

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” contact the new clips.
• Slide the new pads into the bracket by hand.
• Tip: Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads and align the slide pin bolt holes.
• Install and tighten the two slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 1-11 for the other front wheel so braking stays even.

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times before starting the engine until the pedal feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Check brake fluid level and install the reservoir cap.
• Start the engine and hold the brake pedal—make sure it stays firm and doesn’t sink.
• Test drive at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): do 6-10 moderate stops from 30 mph down to ~5 mph, with light driving between stops to cool.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.