🔧 C-HR - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

You’ll be replacing the front brake pads and the front rotors on your C-HR. Worn pads reduce stopping power, and worn/warped rotors can cause vibration or noise when braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Brakes may be hot; let them cool before starting.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Watch brake fluid level; it can overflow when compressing the piston.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Bungee cord
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake quiet compound (optional) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting (do not remove them yet).
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; fluid may rise when you compress the caliper piston.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the front and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front jack point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive), then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the front brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more space to work on the caliper.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
• Lift the caliper off the rotor and hang it with a bungee cord so it does not hang by the brake hose.
• Never let the caliper dangle.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Remove the inner and outer pads by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the pad shims/clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket.
• Clean the caliper bracket pad “tracks” using brake parts cleaner and a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket (caliper support)

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2" drive).
• Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
• During reassembly: Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet until it loosens.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and wipe with shop towels; a clean hub helps prevent rotor wobble.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop towels (removes protective oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• To keep the rotor from flopping while you work, thread on one lug nut by hand (you’ll remove it later).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

• Install the caliper bracket and hand-start both bolts.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs).
• Install the new pad hardware clips from your hardware kit.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears touch the clips (do not get grease on the rotor).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the caliper piston back in. (This tool presses the piston in so the thicker new pads fit.)
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.
• Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 9: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• If your pad set includes a wear indicator, install it in the same position as the original.
• Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor (if used).
• Place the caliper over the new pads and install the two slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Tighten using a torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 2 through 9 for the other front wheel.
• Make sure both sides use the same pad/hardware setup.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Do a careful test drive at low speed first to confirm normal braking and no pulling/noises.
• Pad bedding (break-in): make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph with cooling time between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 150–200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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