How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2018 Subaru Impreza
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for proper reassembly for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2018 Subaru Impreza
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for proper reassembly for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
đź”§ Impreza - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, swap the brake pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. This restores braking performance and prevents vibration/pulsation caused by worn pads or warped rotors.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
- 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—wear N95 mask and avoid blowing dust with air.
- 🛑 Brakes get very hot—work on a cool car.
- 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; use a caliper hanger hook (a hook/strap that holds the caliper up).
- 🛑 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
- 6" extension (3/8" drive)
- Flathead screwdriver (medium)
- Caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
- Caliper hanger hook (specialty)
- Wire brush (small)
- Rubber mallet
- M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, 25-40mm long)
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- N95 dust mask
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant (silicone/ceramic) - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; do not remove the cap yet, just know where it is.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift the front and remove the wheels
- Lift the front with a floor jack at the front center jacking point.
- Set the car onto jack stands placed at the proper front support points.
- Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both front wheels.
Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not stretch the hose)
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the side you’re working on.
- Remove the 2 caliper slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a caliper hanger hook.
- Never let the caliper hang.
Step 3: Remove the pads and hardware
- Slide the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
- Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket.
- Clean the bracket pad “tracks” using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket, breaker bar, and ratchet.
- Set the bracket aside on a towel.
- On reassembly: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the old rotor
- If the rotor is stuck, thread the M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s jacking holes evenly (a few turns each) until the rotor pushes off.
- If needed, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to free rust.
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and wipe with brake cleaner spray.
Step 6: Install the new rotor
- Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop towels.
- Install the rotor onto the hub.
- To hold it straight while you work, thread on 1-2 lug nuts backward by hand (use the existing lug nuts).
Step 7: Reinstall the bracket and new hardware
- Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket.
- Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
- Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
- Apply a thin film of brake lubricant where the pad ears slide on the clips.
Step 8: Compress the caliper piston
- Check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood; if it’s near “MAX,” remove a little fluid with a clean towel (so it doesn’t overflow).
- Compress the caliper piston slowly using a caliper piston compression tool until it seats fully.
- Go slow to avoid reservoir overflow.
Step 9: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
- Apply a small amount of brake lubricant to pad backing contact points (not on pad friction material).
- Set the caliper over the new pads and install the slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
- Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
âś… After Repair
- With the engine off, press the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
- Start the engine and confirm the pedal feels normal and the car does not creep with firm brake applied.
- Do a careful test drive at low speed first; listen for grinding or pulling.
- Pad bed-in (break-in): do 6-8 medium stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, letting brakes cool a minute between stops.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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