🔧 Armada - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the front calipers, swapping the brake pads, and replacing the front rotors. New rotors are important because worn or warped rotors can cause shaking, noise, and reduced stopping power—even with new pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Armada with jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; hang it with a hook/strap.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid gets on paint, rinse with water immediately.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 22mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Ratchet (1/2" drive)
• Caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (50mm length) (pair)
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Don’t remove the cap yet.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the frame securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the front caliper (do not disconnect the hose)

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left for right side, right for left side).
• Remove the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a caliper hanger hook (specialty).
• C-clamp = screw clamp to push piston in.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flat blade screwdriver.
• Remove the old pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Clean the pad “tracks” on the bracket using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 22mm socket and ratchet (1/2" drive) or breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 137 Nm (101 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it’s rust-stuck, tap around the hat with a rubber mallet.
• If your rotor has threaded removal holes, thread in the M8 x 1.25 bolts (50mm length) (pair) evenly to “push” the rotor off.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray and shop rags (removes packing oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• Hold it in place by threading on one lug nut by hand (use your removed wheel lug nut).

Step 7: Reinstall the bracket and hardware

• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 22mm socket.
• Torque to 137 Nm (101 ft-lbs)
• Install the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket (from your hardware kit).
• Apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad ears slide on the clips. Keep grease off pad/rotor surfaces.

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level (under hood). If it’s near “MAX,” be ready—level may rise.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the caliper piston back in until fully seated.
• If fluid starts to overflow, stop and remove some fluid with a clean rag (do not spill).

Step 9: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Slide the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the Armada off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 1–10 on the other front wheel.
• Always replace pads/rotors in pairs.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons to the pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
• Test at low speed first: confirm normal stopping, no pulling, no grinding.
• Brake bedding (recommended): make 8–10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops to cool.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.