🔧 Yukon - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the brake calipers and brackets, swap in new rotors and pads, then torque everything correctly. This restores stopping power and prevents pulsing or grinding caused by worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Yukon with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Wear a dust mask and safety glasses; don’t blow brake dust with compressed air.
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
• 🛑 Keep grease and brake fluid off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 22mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-250 ft-lbs range)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses
• Bungee cord

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose with a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; it may rise when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front safely and place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame.
• Remove the lug nuts using a 22mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room at the caliper you’re working on.
• If needed, gently pry a little with a flat blade screwdriver between the old pad and rotor to create a small gap for removal.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord.
• C-clamp = screw clamp used to push piston in.

Step 3: Remove the caliper bracket and old pads

• Remove the brake pads from the bracket by hand.
• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.

Step 4: Remove the old rotor and clean the hub

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it’s stuck, wiggle it and tap the hat area with your hand while pulling (don’t hit the studs).
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and spray with brake parts cleaner so the new rotor sits flat.
• A dirty hub can cause rotor wobble and pedal pulsation.

Step 5: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner to remove packing oil, then wipe dry.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 6: Reinstall the bracket and hardware clips

• Install new pad abutment clips (from the hardware kit) into the bracket by hand.
• Reinstall the caliper bracket and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten with an 18mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 221 Nm (163 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.

Step 8: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (high-temp silicone) to pad ears where they touch the clips (not on the pad friction material).
• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Set the caliper over the pads and align the slide pins.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket, then final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the Yukon off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Build pedal before moving

• With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Recheck brake fluid level and top off only if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal remains firm.
• Do a slow test stop in your driveway/parking lot first.
• Bed-in the pads: make 8-10 medium stops from 30 mph down to 5 mph, letting brakes cool slightly between stops.
• Listen for abnormal scraping and recheck lug torque after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $380-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.