🔧 Expedition - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the brake calipers and brackets, swap the rotors, install new pads, then torque everything back to spec. Doing pads and rotors together prevents noise, pulsation, and uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Chock the rear wheels and support your Expedition on jack stands before working underneath.
• Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a bungee cord.
• Brake parts get hot; work on a cool brake system.
• No battery disconnect is required for front brakes.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm wrench
• 21mm socket (for caliper bracket bolts)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket extension (3" or 6")
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen (crack loose) the front lug nuts with a 21mm socket before lifting the truck.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll watch the level while compressing pistons so it doesn’t overflow.
• A C-clamp is a screw clamp used to slowly push the caliper pistons back in.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point, then set it onto jack stands.
• Remove the front wheel using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Remove the front brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left for right side work, right for left side work).
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket.
• If the slide pin spins, hold it with a 15mm wrench while you loosen the bolt.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket, then hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord.

Step 3: Remove pads and caliper bracket

• Remove the inner and outer pads by hand; use a flat blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 21mm socket, ratchet, and extension as needed.
• Set the bracket aside on a stable surface.

Step 4: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s rust-stuck, spray the hub/rotor center with brake cleaner spray and scrub the hub face with a wire brush, then work the rotor off.
• Clean the hub face thoroughly using a wire brush so the new rotor sits perfectly flat. Flat hub = no brake shake.

Step 5: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop rags (removes protective oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub and hold it flush while you start reassembly.

Step 6: Reinstall the caliper bracket (torque to spec)

• Reinstall the caliper bracket and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Replace the pad abutment clips (hardware) on the bracket.
• Clean the pad contact areas on the bracket with a wire brush.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease where the pad “ears” slide on the hardware (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 8: Compress the caliper pistons

• Place the old inner pad against the pistons, then use a C-clamp to slowly press the pistons back until fully seated.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir as you compress; remove a little fluid if it’s close to overflowing.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper (torque to spec)

• Set the caliper over the new pads and align the slide bolt holes.
• Install the slide bolts using a 13mm socket; hold the pin with a 15mm wrench if needed.
• Tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the truck, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 1-10 on the opposite side.
• Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 4 if needed.
• Test at low speed first, then re-check for abnormal noise.
• Pad/rotor break-in: make 8-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, with short cool-down driving between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $280-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.