🔧 Kona - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front calipers, swap the brake pads, and replace the rotors on both front wheels. New rotors give the new pads a flat, clean surface so you get smooth braking and avoid vibration.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
• Never support the vehicle with only a jack; always use jack stands.
• Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
• Do not let the brake caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
• Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• No battery disconnect is required for this front brake job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Flat trim tool
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Hand impact driver (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Bungee cord or caliper hanger hook
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in Park, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting the vehicle.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (loosely set it back on). This helps when you push the piston in.
• Check brake fluid level now; when you compress the pistons, the level can rise.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of your Kona

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts.
• Lift with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheels.

Step 2: Remove the front brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work on that side.
• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts (back side of the caliper).
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it using a bungee cord or caliper hanger hook.
• Don’t twist or stretch the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Use a flat trim tool to carefully remove the pad clips (the thin metal “hardware” the pads slide on).

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• The caliper bracket is the metal frame the pads sit in.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two bracket-to-knuckle bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using a Phillips #3 screwdriver.
• If the screws are stuck, use a hand impact driver (specialty) to break them loose.
• Pull the rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat using the handle of your breaker bar (controlled taps).

Step 6: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor

• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Spray the new rotor braking surfaces with brake parts cleaner and wipe clean (removes packing oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub. If you have retaining screws, reinstall and snug them with a Phillips #3 screwdriver.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the new rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the bracket bolts: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips into the bracket (they should snap/seat flat) using a flat trim tool if needed.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) to the pad “ears” where they contact the clips (not on pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the caliper piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove excess fluid if it nears the top.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten: Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 88–108 Nm (65–80 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Restore pedal pressure

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Recheck the brake fluid level and install the reservoir cap securely.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal stays firm.
• Road test at low speed first and verify normal stopping and no pulling.
• Bed-in the pads: perform 6–10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, letting brakes cool slightly between stops; avoid sitting stopped with hot brakes.
• Recheck for any fluid seepage, unusual noise, or vibration.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.