🔧 Enclave - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the front brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors and pads, then reassemble and torque everything to spec. This restores braking performance and fixes issues like grinding, pulsation, or thin pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Enclave on jack stands before working under/around the wheels.
• 🛑 Never press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can pop the piston out).
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Brake parts can be hot; let the brakes cool before starting.
• 🛑 Keep brake fluid off paint; it damages finishes quickly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 22mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Ratchet 1/2"
• Flat blade screwdriver
• C-clamp 6"
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Brake lubricant silicone paste - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧰 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• 🧰 Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• 🧰 Open the hood and check the brake fluid level—if it’s near MAX, be ready to remove a little later (pushing pistons back can make it rise).
• 🧰 A C-clamp is a screw clamp used to press the caliper piston back in smoothly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points and lower onto the stands.
• Remove lug nuts with a 22mm socket and take both front wheels off.

Step 2: Remove the front brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work.
• Use a flat blade screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward a little (this creates clearance).
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Lift the caliper off and hang it from the strut using a bungee cord (do not let it hang by the hose).
• Torque to 42 Nm (31 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Take a quick photo before disassembly.

Step 3: Remove the pads and the caliper bracket

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the caliper bracket bolts.

Step 4: Remove the rotor

• Spray the hub/rotor hat area with brake cleaner spray.
• If the rotor is stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet until it breaks free.
• Remove the rotor from the hub.

Step 5: Clean the hub surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean.
• A clean hub helps prevent brake pulsation.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
• Place the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the new rotor.
• Install and tighten the bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and ratchet 1/2".
• Final tighten with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood (level may rise).
• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp 6" to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• If fluid gets too high, remove a small amount from the reservoir (do not overfill afterward).
• Compress slowly to avoid damaging seals.

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant silicone paste to pad backing plates and pad “ears” where they contact the bracket (keep lube off pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
• Final tighten with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 42 Nm (31 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Snug lug nuts in a star pattern using a 22mm socket and ratchet 1/2".
• Lower the Enclave off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Final tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times before driving until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• ✅ Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
• ✅ Test drive at low speed first; verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• ✅ Bed-in (break-in) the pads: do 6-10 medium stops from 30-40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive if you want extra peace of mind.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.