🔧 Impreza - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

On your Impreza, the front brake pads squeeze the rotors to slow the car. When pads get thin or rotors get grooved/warped, you replace pads and rotors together to restore safe, smooth braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Stock front brake setup (non-Brembo).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before removing any wheel.
• ⚠️ Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and let it drip into a catch pan.
• ⚠️ Never let the brake caliper hang by the rubber hose; support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this front brake job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• Short extension (3" drive extension)
• Flat blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, 25–40mm long)
• Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)
• Catch pan
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake pad hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temperature brake grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the cap loosely on top (don’t remove it completely).
• Check fluid level: if it’s near MAX, remove a little with a clean towel so it won’t overflow when you push the pistons back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar (1/2") to loosen each lug nut about 1/2 turn.

Step 2: Lift and support the front of the car

• Lift the front using a floor jack at the approved front jack point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable before you work.

Step 3: Remove the wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both front wheels and set them aside.

Step 4: Remove the brake caliper (but don’t disconnect the hose)

• Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use a 14mm socket with a ratchet to remove the two slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a brake caliper hanger (specialty). (A caliper hanger is a hook/strap that supports the caliper so the hose isn’t stressed.)

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flat blade screwdriver.
• Remove the old pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket with a breaker bar (1/2") to remove the two bracket bolts.
• Torque spec (reinstall): Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Remove the rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, first tap the rotor “hat” area with a rubber mallet.
• If it’s still stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s push-off holes and tighten evenly with a ratchet until the rotor pops loose.
• Remove the rotor.

Step 8: Clean the hub surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Spray with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop towels.
• Clean hub = less pedal pulsation.

Step 9: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner to remove protective oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• Hold it in place temporarily by threading on one lug nut backward by hand (use a 19mm socket to snug only).

Step 10: Prepare and reinstall the caliper bracket with new hardware

• Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit onto the bracket.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temperature brake grease to where the pad ears slide in the clips (not on rotor or pad friction).
• Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor (use 19mm socket by hand).
• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the piston back until it’s fully seated. (A C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses the piston in smoothly.)
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; stop if it gets close to overflowing.

Step 12: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• If your pad set includes wear indicators, place them on the same side as the original setup.

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the two slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 120 Nm (88.5 ft-lbs)

Step 15: Restore pedal feel and recheck fluid

• Before starting the engine, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid if needed.
• Inspect both front calipers for any signs of leakage.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine running, press and hold the brake pedal for 10 seconds; it should stay firm and not slowly sink.
• Do a low-speed test drive in a safe area and confirm no pulling, grinding, or vibration.
• Brake pad bedding (recommended): make 8–10 medium stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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