🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, swap the front brake pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. This restores safe stopping power and prevents noise, vibration, and uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Altima with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; avoid blowing dust with compressed air and use brake cleaner.
• ⚠️ Brakes can be hot; let parts cool before touching.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the hose—support it with a hook/strap.
• ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid level when compressing the piston; it can overflow.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6")
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Rubber mallet
• Brake parts cleaner spray

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lube) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap on, but check the level so it doesn’t overflow later.
• Break the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn while the tires are still on the ground.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Altima at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands and give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the caliper.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Support it to the strut spring with a bungee cord (don’t stress the hose).

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Remove the brake pads from the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray.
• Clean metal helps pads slide freely.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts (these are tight).
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the old rotor

• Slide the rotor off the hub. If it’s rust-stuck, spray the hub/rotor center with brake parts cleaner spray.
• Tap the rotor hat (the thick center area) with a rubber mallet to break it loose.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub. Hold it in place with a lug nut threaded on by hand (optional) so it doesn’t wobble.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware

• Reinstall the bracket over the new rotor and start bolts by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
• Install the new pad clips from your hardware kit into the bracket.
• Apply a very thin layer of brake caliper grease where the pad “ears” touch the clips (avoid the pad friction material and rotor).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, look at the brake fluid reservoir—if it’s near “MAX,” be ready for a rise in fluid level.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the piston back into the caliper (this makes room for thicker new pads). A C-clamp is a screw tool that squeezes parts together.
• Go slowly and evenly until the piston is fully seated.

Step 9: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket.
• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, slowly press the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed (do not overfill).
• Do a cautious test drive: confirm normal braking and no pulling or grinding.
• Pad bed-in (break-in): make 8-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles if possible.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $150-$610 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.