🔧 Forte - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front brake calipers, swap the pads, and replace the rotors on both front wheels. This restores smooth braking, reduces vibration/pulsation, and helps prevent uneven pad wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Stock front brakes; torque specs may vary by rotor/caliper variant.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can copy the other side if needed.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Flat trim/pry tool
• C-clamp (6")
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Pop the hood and check brake fluid level. If it’s near “MAX,” remove a little with a towel so it won’t overflow when you push pistons back in.
• Loosen (break free) the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the car.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use wheel chocks to secure the rear wheels.
• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) and place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under solid lift points.
• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the caliper.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket. Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the strut spring so the hose is not stretched.
• Tip: Take a quick photo before disassembly.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the pads out by hand. If stuck, use a flat trim/pry tool gently.
• Remove the stainless pad clips/hardware from the bracket by hand or with the flat trim/pry tool.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean the bracket area.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts (these are usually tight).
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 80-100 Nm (59-74 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the old rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck with rust, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor “hat” area firmly (not the studs) using the handle end of your breaker bar as a tap tool.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop towels (removes shipping oil).
• Place the rotor onto the hub. Hold it in place with one lug nut threaded on by hand (use the 21mm socket only lightly if needed).

Step 7: Prep the bracket, clips, and slide pins

• Install the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket by hand.
• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand (these are the smooth pins the caliper glides on).
• Wipe old grease off with shop towels, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
• Reinsert slide pins and make sure they move smoothly.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor.
• Install bracket bolts by hand first, then tighten using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range): Torque to 80-100 Nm (59-74 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Slide the new pads into the bracket/clips by hand.
• If your pads include wear indicators, match their position to how the old ones were installed.
• Tip: Pads should slide freely in the clips.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood as you compress—stop if it starts to overflow.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

• Remove the bungee cord and lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts by hand, then tighten with a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range): Torque to 25-35 Nm (18-26 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range): Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat Steps 2 through 12 for the other side.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed using brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4).
• Test at very low speed first to confirm normal braking and no pulling/noise.
• Bed-in (break-in) pads: make 6-10 medium stops from 30-40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 150-200 miles.
• Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive: Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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