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2015 Subaru WRX
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  • Guides
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  • Subaru WRX
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  • 2018
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  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015 Subaru WRX (DIY Guide)
How To Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on 2018 Subaru WRX

How To Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on 2018 Subaru WRX

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015 Subaru WRX (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015 Subaru WRX (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2015

Orion
Orion

🔧 WRX - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the front brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. This restores braking performance and prevents noise/vibration from worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels before lifting.
  • 🧯 Never rely on a jack alone—support the car with jack stands.
  • 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let them cool before touching.
  • 🧴 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • 🧷 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a strap.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for front brake service on your WRX.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
  • C-clamp (6" minimum) or brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Bungee cord
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Disposable gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
  • 🔧 Crack the front lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting (do not remove yet).
  • 🧴 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; make sure it’s not overfilled because pushing the caliper piston back can raise the fluid level.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
  • Place jack stands under the front pinch welds or approved support points and lower onto the stands.
  • Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheels

  • Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Remove both front wheels and slide them under the car as an extra safety backup.

Step 3: Remove the front caliper (do not stretch the hose)

  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the caliper you’re working on.
  • Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket. Use a bungee cord to hang it from the strut spring. Never hang by the hose.
  • Torque on install: Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs)
  • Tool note: A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact safe tightness.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and inspect the hardware

  • Slide the pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently.
  • Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket (if your new pad set doesn’t include new ones, reuse only if they’re clean and not bent).
  • Quick check: If a pad is worn much more on one side, the slide pins may be sticking and need cleaning/grease.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • Torque on install: Torque to 114 Nm (84 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the old rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
  • If it’s stuck from rust, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to free it.
  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat. Flat hub prevents pedal pulsation.

Step 7: Install the new rotor

  • Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove shipping oil.
  • Place the new rotor onto the hub.
  • Optional helper move: Thread one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor flush while you work.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware

  • Reinstall the bracket over the new rotor using the 17mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Torque to 114 Nm (84 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
  • Install new pad clips/hardware (from your kit) onto the bracket.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood.
  • Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) or brake caliper piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Tool note: A piston compressor is a tool that presses the piston back evenly so new thicker pads fit.
  • If the reservoir starts to overflow, remove a little fluid (do not spill on paint).

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

  • Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to pad ears where they contact the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material or rotor).
  • Slide the new pads into place in the bracket.
  • Lower the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the slide bolts using a 14mm socket, then Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Put the wheels back on and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet in a star pattern.
  • Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
  • Final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

✅ After Repair

  • 🦶 With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
  • 🧴 Recheck brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 if needed.
  • 🔍 Check for any leaks, and confirm both calipers move freely and nothing is rubbing.
  • 🚗 Do a careful test drive: start with low-speed stops.
  • 🛠️ Pad bedding (recommended): do 8-10 medium stops from ~40 mph to ~10 mph, driving a bit between stops to cool. Avoid hard stops to zero until you’re confident everything is normal.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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