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2015 Nissan Sentra
2013 - 2016 Nissan Sentra
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How to Replace Front Brakes 2013-19 Nissan Sentra

How to Replace Front Brakes 2013-19 Nissan Sentra

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015 Nissan Sentra

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2015 Nissan Sentra

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

đź”§ Sentra - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, swap the brake pads and rotors, then reassemble everything with the correct torque. This restores stopping power and prevents vibration/pulsation caused by worn pads or warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the car on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • 🧤 Brake dust is harmful; wear gloves and a dust mask, and use brake cleaner (don’t blow dust with compressed air).
  • 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let them cool before starting.
  • đź§´ Watch the brake fluid level when compressing the caliper piston; it can overflow the reservoir.
  • 🪝 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger/strap.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks (pair)
  • 21mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
  • Large C-clamp
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, 25-35mm long)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Dust mask

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top). This helps when you push the piston back.
  • Do one side at a time as a reference.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the front and remove the wheel

  • Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the front center jack point, then set the car onto jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum).
  • Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper (leave the hose attached)

  • Turn the steering so you can access the caliper bolts easier.
  • Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off the pads and support it with a bungee cord so the brake hose is not stretched.
  • Slide pins are the small bolts the caliper “floats” on.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck).
  • Remove the stainless pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
  • Spray and wipe the area using brake cleaner spray and shop towels.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the two bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • During reassembly: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray and tap the rotor hat using a rubber mallet.
  • If it still won’t come off, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, 25-35mm long) into the rotor’s push-off holes and tighten evenly to “press” the rotor off the hub.
  • Clean rust from the hub face using a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

  • Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels to remove shipping oil.
  • Place the rotor onto the hub.
  • Hold it in place by hand (or reinstall one lug nut finger-tight to keep it from wobbling while you work).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Position the bracket over the new rotor.
  • Install and tighten the bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range).
  • Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

  • Snap the new clips from the front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) into the bracket.
  • Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” slide on the clips (keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces).
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place one old brake pad against the piston face.
  • Use a large C-clamp to slowly press the piston back into the caliper until it bottoms out.
  • Check the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow; remove excess with towels if needed.
  • The piston is the round part that pushes the pads.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

  • Slide the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
  • Install the slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range).
  • Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).
  • If the slide pins feel dry or sticky, pull them out, wipe clean, and apply brake caliper grease (silicone), then reinstall.

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range).
  • Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other front wheel

  • Repeat Steps 1 through 11 on the other side.
  • Replace pads and rotors in pairs.

âś… After Repair

  • With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3) if needed.
  • Start the car and hold the brake pedal; it should feel solid and not sink.
  • Test-drive at low speed first, and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
  • Pad bed-in (recommended): make 8-10 smooth stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph, with light cooling time between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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