🔧 Forte - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be removing the front calipers, replacing the brake pads, and swapping the front rotors. Worn pads or warped rotors can cause squealing, grinding, steering wheel shake, and longer stopping distances.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it out; use brake cleaner.
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hanger.
• 🛑 Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• C-clamp (6")
• Impact screwdriver with Phillips #3 bit (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. If it’s near “MAX,” remove a little with a rag as the level will rise when you compress pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Lift the front using a floor jack at the front center jack point.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the pinch welds/subframe points.
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the caliper

• Turn the steering slightly for access if needed.
• Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
• Caliper slide bolts are the smaller rear bolts.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the pad “tracks” on the bracket using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
• Abutment clips are the metal pad guides.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside on a rag.
• Torque to 88-98 Nm (65-72 ft-lbs) when reinstalling.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using an impact screwdriver with Phillips #3 bit (specialty).
• Remove the rotor from the hub. If stuck, tap the rotor hat face carefully (avoid wheel studs). Use controlled strikes and rotate around the rotor.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray so the new rotor sits flat.
• A flat hub prevents brake pedal pulsation.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor using brake cleaner spray and a shop rag to remove shipping oil.
• Install the rotor onto the hub. If you have retaining screws, reinstall them with the impact screwdriver with Phillips #3 bit (specialty) (snug, not over-tight).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware

• Install new abutment clips onto the bracket.
• Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 88-98 Nm (65-72 ft-lbs).
• Apply a thin film of brake grease (silicone) where the pads slide on the clips (not on the rotor).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.
• Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 9: Install new pads and refit the caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket (make sure they move freely in the clips).
• Slide the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 25-30 Nm (18-22 ft-lbs).
• Repeat Steps 2-9 on the other front wheel.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal is firm and the car stops normally at low speed.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads/rotors: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
• Listen for scraping/grinding; re-check wheel torque after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$480 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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