🔧 Highlander - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

On your Highlander, the front brake pads clamp onto the rotors to slow the vehicle. Replacing pads and rotors together restores braking power, reduces noise/vibration, and prevents uneven pad wear on a worn rotor surface.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground; support the SUV with jack stands before going under or removing wheels.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces (the shiny braking faces).
• ⚠️ If brake fluid rises near “MAX” when compressing the piston, remove some with a suction tool to prevent overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 2
• Wheel chocks - Qty: 2
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lb range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Flat blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6-inch minimum)
• Wire hook or bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
• Front brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Turn the steering wheel to give you more room (left side: turn wheel right; right side: turn wheel left).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Highlander at the proper front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points and lower onto them.
• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

• Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back side of the caliper.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a wire hook or bungee cord (never let it dangle by the brake hose).
• Tip: Take a photo before disassembly.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips/hardware using a flat blade screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “lands” (where clips sit) using a wire brush.

Step 4: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6-inch minimum) to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir as you compress; do not let it overflow.
• Tip: Go slow to protect the seals.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two bracket-to-knuckle bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub. If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat area with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat (prevents pedal pulsation).
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (not on wheel studs).

Step 7: Install the new rotor

• Spray both rotor faces with brake cleaner and wipe clean (removes shipping oil).
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• To keep it from wobbling, thread on one lug nut by hand (use your 21mm lug nut socket to snug lightly).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start bolts by hand.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install new pad clips into the bracket by hand (use a flat blade screwdriver only if needed to seat them).
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) to the pad “ears” where they touch the clips (do not grease the pad face).
• Slide the new pads into place.

Step 10: Service slide pins and reinstall the caliper

• Pull the slide pins out one at a time from the bracket.
• Wipe old grease off, then apply fresh brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone), and reinstall the pins.
• Slide pins are the small shafts the caliper glides on.
• Set the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (19 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other front wheel

• Repeat the same process on the other side so braking stays even.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons back against the pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm pedal feel is normal.
• Test drive in a safe area: confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in the pads: do 6–8 medium stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, with cooling time between stops. Tip: Avoid hard stops first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $320-$480 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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