🔧 QX80 - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the front brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the brakes. This restores stopping power and fixes pulsation or grinding caused by worn pads/warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your QX80 on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brakes create dust—wear a mask and safety glasses; don’t use compressed air to “blow out” dust.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for front brakes.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 22mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
• Caliper hanger hook (or heavy-duty zip ties)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Wire brush
• Flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Drip pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set (includes hardware/clips) - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose before lifting (about 1/4 turn).
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (loosely). This helps the pistons retract; watch for overflow.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the front and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame and lower onto them.
• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (do not stretch the hose)

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room at the caliper you’re working on.
• Remove the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it using a caliper hanger hook (this supports the caliper so the hose isn’t damaged).
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) when reinstalling these slide bolts.

Step 3: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the bracket bolts.

Step 4: Remove the rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor “hat” area (the center) with the palm of your hand first; if needed, use controlled taps with a tool handle (don’t hit the studs).
• Clean the wheel hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits perfectly flat. A flat hub prevents brake pulsation.
• Spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray and catch runoff in a drip pan.

Step 5: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
• Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (not on the rotor braking surface).
• Slide the new rotor on. If it wants to wobble, hold it in place with one lug nut hand-tight.

Step 6: Prep the bracket and install new pad hardware

• Use a flathead screwdriver to remove old pad clips/hardware from the bracket (if included in your pad kit).
• Clean the pad “lands” (where the pads slide) with a wire brush.
• Install the new hardware/clips.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) where pads contact the clips (keep grease off rotor/pad friction material).

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face and use a C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly push the piston back in (a C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses the piston in evenly).
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir for overflow.

Step 8: Install new pads and reinstall bracket + caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket.
• Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 22mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the caliper over the pads and install the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Make sure the brake hose is not twisted and the caliper boots aren’t pinched.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the QX80 to the ground.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Pump the brake pedal and top off fluid

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal slowly 8–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
• Check the brake fluid level and add brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine running, hold the brake pedal for 30 seconds. It should stay firm and not slowly sink.
• Test drive at low speed first and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in the pads: make 8–10 medium stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, with light driving between stops to cool. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a 21mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.