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2016 Nissan Juke
2014 - 2017 Nissan Juke
Nismo
Compatible with more variants.
2014 - 2017 Nissan Juke
Nismo RS
2014 - 2017 Nissan Juke
S
2014 - 2017 Nissan Juke
SL
2014 - 2017 Nissan Juke
SV
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  • Guides
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  • Nissan Juke
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  • 2016
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  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014-2017 Nissan Juke (Trim: Nismo RS)
Nissan Juke Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement - 2011-2017 - How To

Nissan Juke Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement - 2011-2017 - How To

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014-2017 Nissan Juke (Trim: Nismo RS)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and bedding procedure

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014-2017 Nissan Juke (Trim: Nismo RS)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and bedding procedure for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Juke - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the front brake calipers, replace the pads, and swap the rotors. New rotors give the pads a flat, clean surface, which helps stopping power and prevents vibration.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Factory single-piston front calipers; torque specs listed are best-fit service ranges.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧯 Work on level ground and support the Juke with jack stands (never rely on a jack).
  • 🧤 Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
  • 🔥 Brakes get extremely hot—let everything cool before touching.
  • 🧪 Brake fluid can damage paint—wipe spills immediately.
  • 🔒 Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm lug socket
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 3/8"
  • Torque wrench 1/2"
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Ratchet 1/2"
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • C-clamp 6"
  • Wire hook or bungee cord
  • Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Rubber mallet
  • High-temperature brake grease
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front brake hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake pad wear shims (if not included with pads) - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart
  • Brake caliper slide pin boots (if torn) - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🧱 Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the rear wheels.
  • 🛞 Break the front lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm lug socket and breaker bar 1/2" before lifting.
  • 🧴 Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; fluid may rise when you compress the pistons.
  • 🪝 Set out a wire hook or bungee cord so you can hang the caliper (never let it dangle by the brake hose).
  • 🧰 If using a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty): it’s a tool that pushes the piston back evenly without cocking it.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under safe lift points.
  • Remove lug nuts with a 21mm lug socket and ratchet 1/2".

Step 2: Locate the caliper and remove the caliper bolts

  • Turn the steering to give yourself room.
  • Remove the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
  • Lift the caliper off and hang it using a wire hook or bungee cord.
  • Tip: Don’t twist the rubber brake hose.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

  • Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if stuck.
  • Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
  • Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket with a breaker bar 1/2".
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • During reassembly: Torque to 95-115 Nm (70-85 ft-lbs) (caliper bracket bolts).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • Spray the rotor-to-hub area with brake cleaner spray.
  • If the rotor is stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it loose.
  • Clean the hub face until shiny using a wire brush (this helps prevent brake shake).

Step 6: Install the new rotor

  • Clean the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner spray (removes shipping oil).
  • Place the rotor on the hub and hold it in place with 1-2 lug nuts hand-tight (use the old lug nuts by hand only).

Step 7: Service slide pins and reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Pull the slide pins out of the bracket and wipe them clean (they should move smoothly).
  • Apply a thin coat of high-temperature brake grease to the slide pin (not on threads).
  • Reinstall the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2".
  • Torque to 95-115 Nm (70-85 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

  • Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit into the bracket.
  • Apply a very small amount of high-temperature brake grease where the pad ears touch the clips.
  • Install the new pads into the bracket.
  • Tip: Keep grease off pad and rotor surfaces.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

  • Before compressing, check the reservoir level under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.
  • Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) or C-clamp 6" to slowly press the piston back in.
  • Go slowly and keep it straight; if it binds, stop and reset.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

  • Place the caliper over the new pads/rotor.
  • Install slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
  • Torque to 22-30 Nm (16-22 ft-lbs) (caliper slide bolts).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
  • Lower the Juke and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2".
  • Torque to 110-115 Nm (81-85 ft-lbs) (lug nuts).

Step 12: Restore pedal feel

  • With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
  • Recheck brake fluid level and top off with Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) if needed.

✅ After Repair

  • 🧪 Test in the driveway: hold the brake pedal firmly for 30 seconds; it should not sink.
  • 🛣️ Road test at low speed first; verify no pulling, grinding, or vibration.
  • 🧯 Bedding-in (common pad procedure): make 6-8 moderate stops from 40→10 mph, then drive 5-10 minutes without heavy braking to cool.
  • 🔍 Recheck for leaks, and recheck lug torque after 50-100 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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