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2016 Kia Cadenza
2014 - 2016 Kia Cadenza
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2019 Kia Cadenza. Brake Pads/Rotors 14mm slide pin bolts, 17mm caliper bolts, and 21 mm Lug Nuts

2019 Kia Cadenza. Brake Pads/Rotors 14mm slide pin bolts, 17mm caliper bolts, and 21 mm Lug Nuts

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014-2016 Kia Cadenza

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2014-2016 Kia Cadenza

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

đź”§ Cadenza - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the brake caliper and bracket, replace the rotor, then install new pads and reassemble with the correct torque. New rotors are recommended with new pads to prevent vibration, noise, and uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Factory-style single-piston front calipers and standard fasteners; torque values can vary by production date—use the factory spec if yours differs.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
  • 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
  • 🛑 Brake dust is hazardous—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • 🛑 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces; clean with brake cleaner if contaminated.
  • 🛑 Pump the brake pedal before driving; the first press can go to the floor.
  • 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for front brakes on your Cadenza.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lb range)
  • Large C-clamp
  • Phillips #3 bit
  • Manual impact driver
  • Bungee cord or caliper hook
  • Flat plastic trim tool
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Catch pan
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 2
  • DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • đź§° Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • đź§° Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • đź§° Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Do not remove it yet; you’ll monitor the level while compressing the piston.
  • đź§° If the reservoir is very full, use a catch pan and shop towels to prevent overflow when the piston is pushed back.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front end

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved jacking point.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points and lower the car onto them.
  • Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (not the bracket yet)

  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work on one side at a time.
  • Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off the pads and support it with a bungee cord or caliper hook.
  • Slide pins are the small moving bolts. They let the caliper float and apply even pressure.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the pads out by hand. If they’re stuck, use a flat plastic trim tool to gently pry.
  • Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket (usually they pull off).
  • Clean the bracket pad “rails” with a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket on a stable surface.
  • When reinstalling: Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lb).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • If your rotor has retaining screws, remove them using a manual impact driver with a Phillips #3 bit.
  • Pull the rotor off. If it’s stuck with rust, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet until it breaks free.
  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner and wipe with shop towels.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

  • Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe dry with shop towels (this removes protective oil).
  • Install the rotor onto the hub.
  • If rotor screws are used: install them with the manual impact driver and Phillips #3 bit. Torque to 6-9 Nm (4-7 ft-lb).

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a large C-clamp to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Check the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress; stop if it’s about to overflow.
  • Go slowly to protect seals.

Step 8: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install the new pad clips/hardware onto the bracket.
  • Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to the pad ears where they touch the clips.
  • Install the new pads into the bracket. They should slide smoothly with light hand pressure.

Step 9: Reinstall bracket and caliper

  • Reinstall the caliper bracket using the 17mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to start threads, then snug with the 1/2" breaker bar.
  • Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lb) using a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lb range).
  • Reinstall the caliper over the new pads and start the slide pin bolts by hand.
  • Tighten the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and torque wrench (10-200 ft-lb range). Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Install the wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench (10-200 ft-lb range). Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lb).

âś… After Repair

  • đź§Ş Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm before starting to drive.
  • đź§Ş Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid if needed.
  • đź§Ş Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
  • đź§Ş Pad bedding (recommended): make 8-10 medium stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, with 20-30 seconds between stops. Avoid holding the pedal stopped while brakes are hot.
  • đź§Ş Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lb range).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Kia vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2016 Kia Cadenza---
2015 Kia Cadenza---
2014 Kia Cadenza---
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