How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013 Subaru Forester
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools list, parts needed, safety tips, and key torque specs
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013 Subaru Forester
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools list, parts needed, safety tips, and key torque specs
🔧 Forester - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the front brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then torque everything correctly. Worn pads/rotors reduce stopping power and can cause vibration, noise, and longer stopping distances.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support your Forester with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- 🧤 Brake dust is harmful—wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses; avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
- 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let the brakes cool before starting.
- 🧷 Do not let the caliper hang by the hose—support it with a bungee cord.
- 🧴 Brake fluid damages paint—wipe spills immediately.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 1/2" breaker bar
- 1/2" torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Brake parts cleaner spray
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
- Front pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the cap set loosely on top to reduce splashes, and watch the fluid level as you push the pistons back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both front wheels.
Step 2: Remove the caliper (pads stay with the bracket)
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room at the caliper.
- Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off and hang it from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
- Tip: Don’t twist the brake hose.
Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware
- Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flat-blade screwdriver if they’re stuck.
- Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
- Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray, then wipe with shop rags.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside.
- During reassembly: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off.
- If stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it loose.
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush and a light spray of brake parts cleaner spray, then wipe with shop rags.
- Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face to help prevent future seizing.
Step 6: Install the new rotor
- Clean the new rotor braking surfaces with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags (this removes shipping oil).
- Install the rotor onto the hub.
- To hold it in place while you work, thread on two lug nuts backward by hand, then snug them lightly using a 19mm socket (do not torque).
Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware
- Reinstall the bracket over the rotor using a 17mm socket and ratchet to start bolts by hand.
- Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
- Install the new pad clips (hardware) into the bracket.
- Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) on the pad “ears” where they touch the clips. Keep grease off friction material and rotor faces.
Step 8: Compress the caliper piston
- Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
- A disc brake piston compressor (specialty) does the same job and makes it easier; it’s just a tool that presses the piston straight in.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing—remove excess fluid if it starts to overflow (use a clean turkey baster-style siphon if available).
Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper
- Install the new pads into the bracket.
- Slide the caliper over the new pads/rotor.
- Install the two slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
- If the slide pins feel sticky, remove them, clean them, and re-grease with brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based).
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
- Check the brake fluid level at the reservoir and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
- Do a careful test drive: confirm normal braking, no pulling, and no grinding noises.
- Bed-in (break-in) the new pads/rotors: make 8-10 medium stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing 30-60 seconds between stops for cooling. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
- Re-check lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$470 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















