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2013 Subaru Forester
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2009-2013 Subaru Forester Front Brakes (How To) Pads and Rotors Replacement

2009-2013 Subaru Forester Front Brakes (How To) Pads and Rotors Replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013 Subaru Forester

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools list, parts needed, safety tips, and key torque specs

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013 Subaru Forester

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools list, parts needed, safety tips, and key torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 Forester - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the front brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then torque everything correctly. Worn pads/rotors reduce stopping power and can cause vibration, noise, and longer stopping distances.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support your Forester with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
  • 🧤 Brake dust is harmful—wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses; avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
  • 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let the brakes cool before starting.
  • 🧷 Do not let the caliper hang by the hose—support it with a bungee cord.
  • 🧴 Brake fluid damages paint—wipe spills immediately.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm socket
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • 1/2" torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Ratchet (3/8" or 1/2")
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Brake parts cleaner spray
  • Shop rags
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
  • Front pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the cap set loosely on top to reduce splashes, and watch the fluid level as you push the pistons back.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
  • Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (pads stay with the bracket)

  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room at the caliper.
  • Remove the two caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
  • Lift the caliper off and hang it from the strut spring using a bungee cord.
  • Tip: Don’t twist the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware

  • Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flat-blade screwdriver if they’re stuck.
  • Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
  • Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray, then wipe with shop rags.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Set the bracket aside.
  • During reassembly: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off.
  • If stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it loose.
  • Clean the hub face with a wire brush and a light spray of brake parts cleaner spray, then wipe with shop rags.
  • Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face to help prevent future seizing.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

  • Clean the new rotor braking surfaces with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags (this removes shipping oil).
  • Install the rotor onto the hub.
  • To hold it in place while you work, thread on two lug nuts backward by hand, then snug them lightly using a 19mm socket (do not torque).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware

  • Reinstall the bracket over the rotor using a 17mm socket and ratchet to start bolts by hand.
  • Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
  • Install the new pad clips (hardware) into the bracket.
  • Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) on the pad “ears” where they touch the clips. Keep grease off friction material and rotor faces.

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
  • A disc brake piston compressor (specialty) does the same job and makes it easier; it’s just a tool that presses the piston straight in.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing—remove excess fluid if it starts to overflow (use a clean turkey baster-style siphon if available).

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

  • Install the new pads into the bracket.
  • Slide the caliper over the new pads/rotor.
  • Install the two slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
  • If the slide pins feel sticky, remove them, clean them, and re-grease with brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall both wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
  • Check the brake fluid level at the reservoir and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
  • Do a careful test drive: confirm normal braking, no pulling, and no grinding noises.
  • Bed-in (break-in) the new pads/rotors: make 8-10 medium stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing 30-60 seconds between stops for cooling. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
  • Re-check lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$470 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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