How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013 Honda Accord
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013 Honda Accord
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs


đź”§ Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the front calipers, swap the brake pads, and replace the rotors. This restores braking power, reduces vibration/pulsation, and prevents uneven pad wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
- 🛑 Support the Accord with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🛑 Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber hose.
- 🛑 Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- 🛑 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Phillips #3 screwdriver
- Hand impact driver (specialty)
- C-clamp (6" minimum)
- Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
- Flat plastic trim tool
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Drip pan
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front brake pad hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
- Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- đź§° Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
- đź§° Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- đź§° Lift the front and support the pinch welds/subframe with jack stands.
- 🧰 Turn the steering wheel to give more room at the side you’re working on.
- đź§° Pop the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (set it on loosely). This helps the piston push back smoothly.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the front wheels
- Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts, then remove the wheel.
- Place the wheel under the rocker panel as an extra safety backup.
Step 2: Remove the brake caliper (do not open the hose)
- Turn the steering so you can see the back of the caliper.
- Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the 2 caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket.
- Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty) so the hose isn’t stressed. Never let it dangle.
Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
- Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
- Use brake parts cleaner and a wire brush to clean the bracket pad “tracks” where the clips sit.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts.
- Set the bracket on a stable surface.
- When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the rotor
- If your rotor has retaining screws, use a Phillips #3 screwdriver with a hand impact driver (specialty) to break them loose.
- Pull the rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck, tap around the hat of the rotor with a rubber mallet until it frees up.
- Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face so the new rotor sits flat. Flat hub = no pulsation.
Step 6: Install the new rotor
- Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and wipe clean (removes shipping oil).
- Place the rotor onto the hub.
- If you removed retaining screws, reinstall them using a Phillips #3 screwdriver (snug only).
Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket with new hardware clips
- Install the new pad clips into the bracket by hand (they snap into place).
- Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
- Final tighten using a torque wrench (a tool that measures tightening force): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Service the slide pins
- Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
- Wipe old grease off the pins with a clean rag.
- Apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) and reinstall the pins so they move smoothly.
Step 9: Install the new pads
- Apply a very thin smear of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) to the pad “ears” where they touch the new clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
- Snap the new inner and outer pads into the bracket/clips.
Step 10: Compress the caliper piston
- Place one of the old pads against the caliper piston face.
- Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) (a screw clamp that squeezes the piston back in) to slowly press the piston fully into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid level at the reservoir; use a drip pan and remove excess fluid if it gets too high.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper
- Set the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the 2 slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
- Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the Accord to the ground.
- Use a torque wrench with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Repeat on the other front side
- Repeat Steps 1-12 for the other front brake.
- Always do pads and rotors in pairs.
âś… After Repair
- đź§Ş Before moving the car, pump the brake pedal 8-12 times until it feels firm.
- đź§Ş Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
- đź§Ş Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm with vacuum assist.
- đź§Ş Test drive at low speed first and confirm normal stopping and no pulling.
- đź§Ş Pad bedding (recommended): make 8-10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, allowing a little cool-down time between stops.
- đź§Ş Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $150-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $300-$450 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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