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2013 Honda Accord
2013 Honda Accord
EX-L - Inline 4 2.4L
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors 2013-2017 Honda Accord

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors 2013-2017 Honda Accord

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013 Honda Accord

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013 Honda Accord

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front calipers, swap the brake pads, and replace the rotors. This restores braking power, reduces vibration/pulsation, and prevents uneven pad wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
  • 🛑 Support the Accord with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • 🛑 Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber hose.
  • 🛑 Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • 🛑 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
  • 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • 12mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Phillips #3 screwdriver
  • Hand impact driver (specialty)
  • C-clamp (6" minimum)
  • Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
  • Flat plastic trim tool
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Drip pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front brake pad hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
  • Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • đź§° Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
  • đź§° Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • đź§° Lift the front and support the pinch welds/subframe with jack stands.
  • đź§° Turn the steering wheel to give more room at the side you’re working on.
  • đź§° Pop the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (set it on loosely). This helps the piston push back smoothly.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front wheels

  • Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts, then remove the wheel.
  • Place the wheel under the rocker panel as an extra safety backup.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper (do not open the hose)

  • Turn the steering so you can see the back of the caliper.
  • Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the 2 caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket.
  • Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty) so the hose isn’t stressed. Never let it dangle.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
  • Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
  • Use brake parts cleaner and a wire brush to clean the bracket pad “tracks” where the clips sit.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

  • Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts.
  • Set the bracket on a stable surface.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

  • If your rotor has retaining screws, use a Phillips #3 screwdriver with a hand impact driver (specialty) to break them loose.
  • Pull the rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck, tap around the hat of the rotor with a rubber mallet until it frees up.
  • Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face so the new rotor sits flat. Flat hub = no pulsation.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

  • Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner and wipe clean (removes shipping oil).
  • Place the rotor onto the hub.
  • If you removed retaining screws, reinstall them using a Phillips #3 screwdriver (snug only).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket with new hardware clips

  • Install the new pad clips into the bracket by hand (they snap into place).
  • Reinstall the bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
  • Final tighten using a torque wrench (a tool that measures tightening force): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Service the slide pins

  • Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
  • Wipe old grease off the pins with a clean rag.
  • Apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) and reinstall the pins so they move smoothly.

Step 9: Install the new pads

  • Apply a very thin smear of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) to the pad “ears” where they touch the new clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
  • Snap the new inner and outer pads into the bracket/clips.

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

  • Place one of the old pads against the caliper piston face.
  • Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) (a screw clamp that squeezes the piston back in) to slowly press the piston fully into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake fluid level at the reservoir; use a drip pan and remove excess fluid if it gets too high.

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

  • Set the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the 2 slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
  • Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the Accord to the ground.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other front side

  • Repeat Steps 1-12 for the other front brake.
  • Always do pads and rotors in pairs.

âś… After Repair

  • đź§Ş Before moving the car, pump the brake pedal 8-12 times until it feels firm.
  • đź§Ş Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • đź§Ş Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm with vacuum assist.
  • đź§Ş Test drive at low speed first and confirm normal stopping and no pulling.
  • đź§Ş Pad bedding (recommended): make 8-10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 10 mph, allowing a little cool-down time between stops.
  • đź§Ş Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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