🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and front brake rotors on your Altima. Brake pads wear down over time, and rotors can become grooved, warped, or too thin, causing noise, vibration, or reduced braking.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Altima with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves. Brake dust is harmful, so do not blow it with compressed air.
• ⚠️ The front brakes do not use the electronic parking brake, so no EPB service mode is needed for this front brake job.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint. It can damage painted surfaces quickly.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Replace front brake pads and rotors as a left-and-right pair for even braking.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner aerosol
• Shop towels
• Small bungee cord
• Rubber mallet
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground and shift to Park.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that stop the car from rolling.
• 🚫 Do not set the parking brake if you plan to rotate the rear wheels later, but it is okay to set it for this front-only brake job.
• 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount before compressing the caliper pistons.
• 🔩 Slightly loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not fully remove the lug nuts while the tire is still on the ground.
• Loose first, lift second.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point or the approved side pinch weld jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the approved front support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to make sure it is stable before working near the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Look at the caliper, pads, rotor, rubber brake hose, and slide pin boots.
• The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• The rotor is the large metal disc behind the wheel.
• If you see brake fluid leaking from the hose or caliper, stop and repair that before installing new pads and rotors.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Caliper

• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• If the slide pin spins, hold it with the 14mm wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the strut spring using the brake caliper hanger hook or small bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use the flat-head screwdriver to gently pry the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Notice how the inner and outer pads sit before removing them.
• Remove the old pad hardware clips from the bracket by hand or with the flat-head screwdriver.

Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• These bolts are tighter than the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.

Step 8: Remove the Old Rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub by hand.
• If it is stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat area with the rubber mallet.
• Do not hit the wheel studs directly.
• Tap around evenly, not hard.

Step 9: Clean the Wheel Hub

• Use the wire brush to clean rust and scale from the hub face.
• Spray the hub face with brake cleaner aerosol and wipe it with shop towels.
• A clean hub helps the new rotor sit flat and prevents brake pedal vibration.

Step 10: Prepare and Install the New Rotor

• Spray both friction surfaces of the new rotor with brake cleaner aerosol.
• Wipe the rotor dry with shop towels.
• Slide the new rotor onto the wheel hub.
• Thread one lug nut on by hand using the 21mm lug nut socket to hold the rotor flat while you work.

Step 11: Clean and Prepare the Caliper Bracket

• Use the wire brush to clean the areas where the pad hardware clips sit.
• Install the new hardware clips from the front brake hardware kit by hand.
• Remove each slide pin from the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off the slide pins with shop towels.
• Apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease to each slide pin.
• Reinstall the slide pins by hand and make sure they move smoothly.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Place the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

• Slide the new brake pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pad ears sit fully in the new hardware clips.
• If the pads are tight, remove them and recheck the hardware clip position. Do not force them.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease only to pad contact points on the metal backing plate, not the pad friction material.

Step 14: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place the old inner brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use the brake caliper compression tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• A caliper piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the pads when you brake.
• Compress slowly so brake fluid returns gently to the reservoir.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. Remove excess fluid if it gets close to overflowing.

Step 15: Reinstall the Caliper

• Place the caliper over the new brake pads and rotor.
• Start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Use the 14mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the slide pin bolts.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Front Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the other front wheel.
• Always replace pads and rotors on both front sides together.

Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor using the 21mm lug nut socket.
• Install each wheel onto the hub.
• Start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Wheels

• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)

Step 19: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct DOT 3 brake fluid.
• ✅ Start the engine and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm, not sink to the floor.
• ✅ Test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Listen for scraping, grinding, clicking, or rubbing noises.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after your first short drive.
• ✅ Bed in the new brakes if the pad manufacturer recommends it. A common method is several moderate stops from about 30-40 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless it is an emergency.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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