🔧 Fusion - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new pads. This restores braking power and fixes pulsation/vibration from warped rotors or worn pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brakes may contain dust—avoid blowing it; use brake cleaner instead.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for front brakes on your Fusion.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 7mm hex bit socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Brake caliper hanger
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Small bungee cord
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Brake caliper hardware kit (clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
• Brake fluid (DOT 4 LV) - Qty: 1 quart

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen (crack loose) the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure it’s not overfilled—fluid rises when you compress the piston.
• “Caliper piston” is the part that pushes the pads.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption (best-effort): Your Fusion uses a 7mm hex for the caliper slide pins and 18mm (or 15mm) for the caliper bracket bolts; both are common on this platform.

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the approved front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid frame/support points and lower the car onto them.
• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Turn the steering for access

• Turn the steering wheel so the side you’re working on points outward (gives more room).
• Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves before cleaning parts.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (the “clamp” over the rotor)

• Spray the caliper area with brake cleaner and wipe with shop towels.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 7mm hex bit socket with a ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the pads and rotor. Support it with a brake caliper hanger (do not stretch the hose).
• Torque on install: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for slide pin bolts.
• If it won’t lift, gently pry with screwdriver.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• If your bracket bolts are smaller on your setup, use a 15mm socket instead.
• Remove the bracket and set it aside.
• Torque on install: Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs) for caliper bracket bolts.

Step 5: Remove the old rotor

• If your rotor has a retaining screw (some do), remove it using a flathead screwdriver.
• Pull the rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break it free.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush and wipe clean with shop towels.
• A clean hub helps prevent brake pulsation.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil, then wipe with shop towels.
• Install the rotor onto the hub.
• Thread two lug nuts on by hand backward (flat side against rotor) using the 21mm socket to hold the rotor snug while you work.

Step 7: Prep the bracket and install new hardware clips

• Remove old pad clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad-contact areas with a wire brush.
• Install new clips from the hardware kit by hand (they snap into place).
• Apply a thin film of brake lubricant where the pads slide on the clips.
• Only lube sliding points—never pad friction.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten using an 18mm socket (or 15mm socket) and a ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque: Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove the old inner pad (or use a flat piece of wood) and place it against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper until it’s fully seated.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir and remove fluid if it gets too high (use shop towels for spills).
• Go slow to avoid damaging the piston seal.

Step 10: Install the new brake pads

• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand (they should slide smoothly on the lubricated clips).
• If your pads include a wear indicator, it typically goes on the inner pad (match the old pad orientation if present).

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads and onto the bracket.
• Install slide pin bolts using a 7mm hex bit socket and ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 4 LV if needed.
• Start the engine and verify the pedal stays firm. Do a slow test stop in a safe area.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
• Recheck for leaks, odd noises, or pulling to one side.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$580 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.