🔧 Fusion - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors, then install new pads and hardware. This restores smooth braking, reduces vibration/pulsation, and prevents pad wear caused by a worn or warped rotor.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Fusion with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧯 Brake dust is hazardous—wear a dust mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
• 🧤 Rotors and brakes can be hot—let everything cool before starting.
• 🔩 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a caliper hook.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake/rotor job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp brake piston tool
• Caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Torx T30 bit
• Brake cleaner spray
• Drip pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (pad clips/abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen front lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 19mm socket and breaker bar).
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. You may need to remove a little fluid if it’s full (use a drip pan).
• Tip: Take a quick photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room on the side you’re working on.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward a little (this makes removal easier).
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a caliper hanger hook.
• Tip: Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the pads and caliper bracket

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar (your Fusion may use either size).
• Set the bracket on the ground or suspend it—do not stress the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the rotor

• If equipped with a rotor retaining screw, remove it using a Torx T30 bit.
• Pull the rotor straight off. If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to free it.

Step 5: Clean and prep the hub surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and let it dry.
• Tip: A clean hub helps prevent pedal pulsation.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
• Place the rotor onto the hub. If there’s a retaining screw, install it with a Torx T30 bit and snug it (do not overtighten). Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket and hardware clips

• Reinstall the caliper bracket bolts using a 15mm socket or 18mm socket and a torque wrench. Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Remove old pad clips from the bracket and install the new ones from the hardware kit.
• Spray the bracket contact areas lightly with brake cleaner spray and dry.

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face (optional but helpful).
• Use a C-clamp brake piston tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood—don’t let it overflow.
• Tip: Go slow to avoid damaging the seals.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to pad “ears” where they slide in the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Lower the caliper over the pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and a torque wrench. Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car until the tires just touch the ground.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
• Fully lower the car and remove the jack/stands.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• Test drive at low speed first. Make sure braking is smooth and the car stops straight.
• Bed-in (break-in) new pads/rotors: do 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to 5 mph, with short cool-down drives between stops. Do not hold the brake hard at a complete stop right after.
• If you hear grinding, strong pulling, or the pedal stays soft, stop and recheck your work.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.