🔧 Journey - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, swap the front brake pads and rotors, and then reassemble everything with the correct torque. Worn pads or warped rotors can cause squealing, grinding, vibration, and longer stopping distances.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: standard single-piston front calipers (most Journey trims).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Journey on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; the piston can pop out.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
• ⚠️ Brake parts get hot; let the brakes cool before starting.
• ⚠️ Keep grease off pad friction surfaces and rotor faces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket 19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 3/8" drive (including 13mm, 18mm)
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• Open-end wrench set (including 15mm)
• C-clamp 6"
• Caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. We’ll watch the fluid level later.
• Loosen (crack loose) the front lug nuts with a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the Journey

• Use a floor jack to lift at the front jacking point, then set the vehicle onto jack stands.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front wheel

• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet.
• Remove the wheel and place it under the rocker area as an added safety backup.

Step 3: Locate the caliper bolts and remove the caliper

• Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left for right side, right for left side).
• Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket while holding the guide pin with a 15mm open-end wrench if it spins.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper with a caliper hanger hook (specialty) (this is a hook that supports the caliper so the brake hose isn’t strained).

Step 4: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the pad abutment clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• On reassembly: Torque to 169 Nm (125 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the old rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck from rust, spray the hub area with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor hat (not the wheel studs) with a rubber mallet until it breaks free.

Step 7: Clean the hub surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Wipe with shop towels and a quick spray of brake cleaner spray.
• A clean hub helps prevent pedal pulsation.

Step 8: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels (this removes protective shipping oil).
• Slide the rotor onto the hub.
• Thread one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor in place while you work.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware clips

• Reinstall the bracket using an 18mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 169 Nm (125 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2" drive.
• Install new abutment clips onto the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if needed).

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood—if it’s near “MAX,” remove a little fluid with a clean towel (do not overfill later).
• Use an old brake pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp 6" to slowly push the piston fully back (a C-clamp is a screw clamp that presses the piston straight in).
• Go slow and keep the piston straight to avoid damaging the boot.

Step 11: Install the new pads

• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) to the pad ears (where they touch the clips).
• If your pad set includes shims, apply a very light layer of brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) to the pad backing plates where they contact the caliper.
• Slide the new pads into the bracket by hand.
• Keep grease off the pad friction material.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet while holding the guide pin with a 15mm open-end wrench if needed.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2" drive.
• Confirm the brake hose is not twisted and the caliper moves freely on the pins.

Step 13: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet.

Step 14: Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts

• Lower off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive and 19mm lug nut socket.

Step 15: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 1–14 on the other front wheel.
• Always replace front pads and rotors in pairs.

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✅ After Repair

• Before starting the engine, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 only if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm.
• Do a slow test drive and verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (recommended): do 6–10 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, with cool-down driving between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 150–200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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