How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs


đź”§ Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, take off the brake caliper and bracket, replace the rotor, then install new pads and reassemble. This restores braking power and fixes issues like grinding, pulsation, or thin pads/warped rotors.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Accord on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Wear a dust mask and safety glasses; brake dust is harmful.
- ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the hose—support it with a hanger.
- ⚠️ Keep grease and brake cleaner off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
- ⚠️ Watch brake fluid level when compressing the piston; it can overflow.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
- Phillips #3 impact driver (specialty)
- Dead-blow hammer
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp brake piston compressor (specialty)
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Brake parts cleaner spray
- Disposable gloves
- Safety glasses
- Dust mask
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Front rotor set screws (optional) - Qty: 2
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure it’s not already at the “MAX” line (it may rise when you compress the pistons).
- Break the front lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room (left side: turn wheel right; right side: turn wheel left).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Lift the front with a floor jack at the proper front jacking point, then set the car onto jack stands.
- Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove the wheels.
Step 2: Remove the brake caliper
- Find the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper and remove them using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
- Carefully lift the caliper off the pads/rotor. Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the spring/strut.
- Slide bolts are the “moving” caliper bolts.
- Torque (reinstall later): Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Step 3: Remove the caliper bracket and old pads
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts (larger bolts behind the bracket) using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Lift off the bracket and remove the old brake pads.
- Torque (reinstall later): Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 4: Remove the rotor
- If your rotor has a retaining screw, remove it using a Phillips #3 impact driver. (An impact driver turns while you strike it—this prevents stripping.)
- Pull the rotor straight off. If stuck from rust, tap around the rotor “hat” (the center area) with a dead-blow hammer until it loosens.
Step 5: Clean the hub surface
- Use a wire brush to clean rust off the wheel hub face (where the rotor sits).
- Spray the area with brake parts cleaner spray and let it dry.
- A clean hub helps prevent brake pulsation.
Step 6: Install the new rotor
- Clean the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
- Install the rotor onto the hub. If using retaining screws, start them by hand and snug them with the Phillips #3 impact driver (do not over-tighten).
Step 7: Service the caliper bracket hardware
- Remove the old pad clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
- Clean the bracket pad “lands” (where clips sit) with a wire brush, then install the new clips from your hardware kit.
- Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) to the clip contact points where the pad ears slide (not on rotor/pad faces).
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Position the bracket over the new rotor and start both bolts by hand.
- Tighten with a 17mm socket and ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 9: Compress the caliper piston
- Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp brake piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the piston back in.
- Go slowly and check the brake fluid reservoir so it doesn’t overflow.
Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
- Lower the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper slide bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Step 11: Reinstall the wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 12: Repeat on the other front side
- Repeat Steps 1–11 on the other front wheel.
- Do one side at a time for reference.
âś… After Repair
- Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
- Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
- With the engine on, hold the brake pedal firmly for 10 seconds; it should not slowly sink.
- Test drive at low speed first. Listen for grinding and confirm straight braking.
- Pad break-in (bedding): do 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to 5 mph, driving a bit between stops to cool (avoid hard stops to zero for the first 150–200 miles).
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $500-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $340-$550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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