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2011 Ford Explorer
2011 - 2019 Ford Explorer
Base V6 3.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
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  • Ford Explorer
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  • 2011 to 2019
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  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: Base | Engine: V6 3.5L)
How to replace the brake pads & rotors on a 2011 Ford Explorer

How to replace the brake pads & rotors on a 2011 Ford Explorer

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: Base | Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: Base | Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Explorer - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front calipers, replace the brake pads, and swap the front rotors. This restores stopping power and fixes vibration/pulsation caused by warped or worn rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧯 Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels before lifting.
  • 🧤 Never support the vehicle with only a jack; use jack stands.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
  • 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let everything cool before starting.
  • 🔩 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug nut socket (19mm)
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (metric)
  • Wrench set (metric)
  • Caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Large C-clamp (6-inch)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Catch pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Front brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
  • Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; do not remove the cap yet, but check the level so it won’t overflow when you push the pistons back.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the front and remove the wheels

  • Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved front jacking point.
  • Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake-check stability.
  • Remove lug nuts with a 19mm lug nut socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the front caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself room to work (left for right side, right for left side).
  • Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward a tiny bit (this creates clearance).
  • Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using your socket set (metric) or wrench set (metric).
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord so the hose isn’t stretched.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and caliper bracket

  • Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
  • Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set (metric).
  • Set the bracket aside.

Step 4: Remove the old rotor

  • If the rotor is stuck from rust, spray the hub/rotor center with brake cleaner spray and wait 1 minute.
  • Tap the rotor hat (the thick center area) with a rubber mallet to free it, then remove the rotor.
  • Clean the wheel hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits perfectly flat. A dirty hub can cause brake pulsation.

Step 5: Install the new rotor

  • Clean both sides of the new rotor using brake cleaner spray (new rotors often have protective oil).
  • Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
  • Optional: Thread one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor snug while you work.

Step 6: Service the bracket and install new hardware

  • Remove the old pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket by hand or using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad-contact areas with a wire brush.
  • Install the new hardware clips from the front brake hardware kit.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Reinstall the caliper bracket bolts using your socket set (metric).
  • Tighten using a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 166 Nm (122 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

  • Put the old inner pad against the piston face to spread the force evenly.
  • Use a caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) or large C-clamp (6-inch) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Check the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; if it rises too high, remove a little fluid using the catch pan to avoid spills.
  • Go slow to avoid damaging the piston seal.

Step 9: Grease the slide pins and install new pads

  • Pull the slide pins out of the bracket (they are the smooth pins the caliper floats on).
  • Wipe them clean and apply a thin, even coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
  • Reinsert the slide pins and make sure they move smoothly.
  • Install the new pads into the bracket in the same positions as removed.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

  • Place the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the caliper slide pin bolts using your socket set (metric) or wrench set (metric).
  • Tighten using a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed (do not overfill).
  • Test at low speed first. Confirm normal braking and no pulling/noise.
  • Pad bedding (recommended): make 8-10 moderate stops from 30 mph down to 5 mph, allowing 30-60 seconds between stops for cooling. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
  • If you have a grinding noise or the pedal stays soft, stop and recheck pad seating, slide pins, and caliper bolts.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$520 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Ford vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2019 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
2019 Ford ExplorerBaseInline 4 2.3L-
2018 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
2018 Ford ExplorerBaseInline 4 2.3L-
2017 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
2017 Ford ExplorerBaseInline 4 2.3L-
2016 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
2016 Ford ExplorerBaseInline 4 2.3L-
2015 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
2015 Ford ExplorerBaseInline 4 2.0L-
2014 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
2014 Ford ExplorerBaseInline 4 2.0L-
2013 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
2013 Ford ExplorerBaseInline 4 2.0L-
2012 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
2012 Ford ExplorerBaseInline 4 2.0L-
2011 Ford ExplorerBaseV6 3.5L-
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