🔧 Expedition - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. New rotors give a flat, smooth surface so the new pads can stop well and stay quiet.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Expedition with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Brakes may contain dust; avoid blowing it with air—use brake cleaner instead.
• 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose—support it with a hook/strap.
• 🛑 After reassembly, pump the brake pedal before moving the vehicle.
• 🛑 No battery disconnect is required for this front brake job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp piston compressor (specialty)
• Caliper hook or bungee strap
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. As you compress the caliper pistons, the level may rise—remove a little fluid if it’s near “MAX.”
• Tip: Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front jacking point.
• Set the frame onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

• Turn the steering to give yourself room (left for right side work, right for left side work).
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Support it with a caliper hook or bungee strap so it doesn’t pull on the hose.
• Tip: Don’t press the brake pedal right now.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket (also called the anchor bracket)

• The caliper bracket is the heavy metal mount that the pads slide in.
• Remove the two large bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub.
• If it’s stuck from rust, tap around the rotor “hat” area using a rubber mallet until it loosens.
• Clean the hub face (where the rotor sits) with a wire brush and wipe with shop rags.
• Tip: A clean hub helps prevent brake shake.

Step 6: Install the new rotor

• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags to remove protective oil.
• Place the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the new rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to the bracket bolt threads.
• Tighten with an 18mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 225 Nm (166 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install new hardware clips and prep the pad slide areas

• Snap the new hardware clips into the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad “ears” touch the clips.
• Tip: Grease only metal-to-metal contact points.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a C-clamp piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the caliper piston back into the caliper.
• A piston compressor is a tool that presses the piston in evenly so new, thicker pads fit.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; don’t let it overflow.

Step 10: Install the new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 2–11 on the remaining front wheel.
• Tip: Do one side at a time to stay organized.

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 8–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Check for leaks and make sure nothing is rubbing or dragging.
• Do a careful test drive at low speed first.
• Bedding-in (pad break-in): make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, with cool-down driving between stops. Bedding-in transfers an even layer of pad material to the rotor for smoother braking.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.