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2015 Toyota Corolla
2009 - 2019 Toyota Corolla
Inline 4 1.8L Sedan
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
  • /
  • Toyota Corolla
  • /
  • 2009 to 2019
  • /
  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2009-2019 Toyota Corolla (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L | Body: Sedan)
Toyota Corolla Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement 2013-2017 - 3 1/2 Minute DIY Video

Toyota Corolla Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement 2013-2017 - 3 1/2 Minute DIY Video

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
17mm
17mm
Socket
or (21/32")
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2009-2019 Toyota Corolla (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2009-2019 Toyota Corolla (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

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Orion

đź”§ Corolla - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the front wheels, unbolt the brake calipers, replace the pads, and swap the rotors. New rotors give the new pads a flat, clean surface so braking stays smooth and quiet.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support your Corolla on jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
  • 🛑 Brakes create dust and spray—wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
  • 🛑 Hang the caliper—do not let it dangle by the rubber brake hose.
  • 🛑 Brake fluid damages paint—wipe spills immediately.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • C-clamp or brake caliper piston compressor (specialty)
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair)
  • Brake parts cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
  • Front pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground. Set the parking brake. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Leave the cap loosely set on top. This helps the piston push back easier.
  • Tip: Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the front

  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to crack the front lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn.
  • Lift the front with a floor jack at the front jacking point and set the car on jack stands.
  • Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Remove the caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

  • Turn the steering wheel to give yourself space to work.
  • Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the pads and hang it from the spring/strut using a bungee cord.

Step 3: Remove pads and the caliper bracket (the pad “frame”)

  • Slide the old pads out by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
  • Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
  • Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
  • Torque spec (later): Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs) for the bracket bolts.

Step 4: Remove the rotor

  • If the rotor pulls off, remove it by hand.
  • If it’s stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts into the rotor’s “push-off” holes and tighten evenly with a 17mm socket until the rotor pops loose.
  • If needed, tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to help break rust free.

Step 5: Clean and install the new rotor

  • Use brake parts cleaner spray and shop towels to remove protective oil from the new rotor.
  • Use a wire brush to clean rust off the wheel hub face (where the rotor sits).
  • Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid getting any on rotor braking surfaces).
  • Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 6: Service the bracket hardware and slide pins

  • Remove the old pad clips from the bracket by hand (or use a flathead screwdriver carefully).
  • Clean the bracket’s clip “lands” with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray.
  • Install the new clips from the hardware kit.
  • Pull the slide pins out (they’re the smooth pins the caliper rides on). Wipe clean with shop towels.
  • Apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone) to the slide pins and reinstall them.
  • Tip: Pins must move smoothly with finger pressure.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper bracket

  • Position the bracket over the new rotor.
  • Start the two bracket bolts by hand, then tighten with a 17mm socket and ratchet.
  • Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

  • The piston is the round “push” part inside the caliper. It must be pushed back to fit new thicker pads.
  • Place one old pad against the piston, then use a C-clamp or brake caliper piston compressor (specialty) to slowly press the piston all the way in.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. If it looks like it may overflow, remove a little fluid with a shop towel carefully.

Step 9: Install new pads

  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket/clips.
  • Apply a light smear of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad backing contacts the caliper/bracket (do not get grease on pad friction material).

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the two slide pin bolts by hand, then tighten with a 14mm socket and ratchet.
  • Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheel and repeat on the other side

  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
  • Repeat Steps 1-10 on the other front wheel.

âś… After Repair

  • Press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
  • Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed. Reinstall the reservoir cap.
  • With the engine on, confirm the pedal stays firm. Then do a low-speed test stop in a safe area.
  • Pad bedding (recommended): Make 5-8 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, with 30 seconds between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
  • Recheck for leaks, odd noises, or pulling. Re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Toyota vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2019 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2018 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2017 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2016 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2015 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2014 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2013 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2012 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2011 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2010 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2010 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 2.4LSedan
2009 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 1.8LSedan
2009 Toyota Corolla-Inline 4 2.4LSedan
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